A1 AP51 AP61 0 kilometres 100 Ávila AP6 0 miles 50
CENTRAL SPAIN 351 CASTILLA Y LEÓN León • Zamora • Salamanca • Ávila • Segovia Valladolid • Palencia • Burgos • Soria Awesome expanses of ochre plains stretch to hills crowned with the castles that cover this vast region. Through Spain’s history, these central provinces have had a major influence on its language, religion and culture. Their many historic cities preserve some of the country’s most magnificent architectural sights. The territories of the two rival medieval León. Burgos has an exuberantly dec- kingdoms of Castile and León, occu- orated Gothic cathedral. León Cathedral pying the northern half of the great is famous for its wonderful stained glass. plateau in the centre of Spain, now At the heart of the monumental city of form the country’s largest region, or Salamanca is the oldest university in the comunidad autónoma. peninsula. Segovia’s aqueduct is the largest Roman structure in Spain and Castile and León were first brought its Alcázar is the country’s most photo- together under one crown in 1037 by graphed castle. Ávila is surrounded by an Fernando I, but the union was not con- unbroken wall, built by Christian forces solidated until the early 13th century. against the Moors. In Valladolid, the The kingdom of Castile and León was regional capital, a superb collection of one of the driving forces of the multicoloured sculpture is displayed in Reconquest. El Cid, the legendary hero, a magnificent 15th-century building. was born near Burgos. Beyond the cities, in Castilla y León’s Wealth pouring in from the wool trade varied countryside, there are many and the New World, reaching a peak in attractive small towns which preserve the 16th century, financed the many great outstanding examples of the region’s artistic and architectural treasures that vernacular architecture. can be seen today in the cities of Castilla y Cereal fields and vineyards covering the fertile Tierra de Campos in Palencia province View of the Old Town of Segovia, dominated by the tower of the Gothic cathedral
352 CENTRAL SPAIN Exploring Castilla y León Covering the northern part of Central Spain’s vast tableland, Castilla y León has a huge variety of sights. Many are well known, like the great cathedrals of Burgos and León, the Alcázar and aqueduct of Segovia, the medieval walls of Ávila and the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos. Other historic towns and villages worthy of a detour include Ciudad Rodrigo, Covarrubias, Pedraza de la Sierra and Zamora. This region also has beautiful mountainous countryside in the Sierra de Francia, Sierra de Bejar and Sierra de Gredos. Puerto de Somiedo 1486m Puerto de Leitariegos Oviedo Puerto de Pajares Riaño 1379m Sights at a Glance 1525m CUEVAS DE 1 El Bierzo 2 Villafranca del Bierzo eArnr ac adr ee s VALPORQUERO 3 Ponferrada EL BI 4 Puebla de Sanabria Lugo Si Vegarienza La Robla Boñar Cistierna 5 Astorga VILLAFRANCA 6 Cueva de Valporquero E R Z Toreno LEÓN Almansa 7 León pp357–9 DEL BIERZO 8 Zamora O Órbigo Mansilla de 9 Ciudad Rodrigo Esla las Mulas q Salamanca pp362–5 Corullón e León w Sierra de Gredos ASTORGA Sahagún e Ávila PONFERRADA d r La Granja de San Ildefonso Las Médulas Montes Valencia de El Teleno Don Juan 2183m La Bañeza Mayorga Villada Valderas San Martín PUEBLA DE Eria de Castañeda SANABRIA t Segovia Vigo Tera Benavente y Pedraza de la Sierra u Sepúlveda MEDINA DE i Castillo de Coca RIOSECO o Medina del Campo p Tordesillas C A S T I L L AEmbalse de Ricobayo Alcañices Fonfría Villardefrades Wamba a Valladolid San Pedro de la Nave TORDESILLAS s Medina de Rioseco Toro d Palencia ZAMORA Castronuño f Frómista Duero g Aguilar de Campoo h Briviesca Fermoselle Corrales MEDINA DEL CAMPO j Covarrubias Trabanca Embalse de k Burgos pp374–7 Almendra l Lerma z Monasterio de Santo Domingo uero Buen Amor Cañizal Tormes Madrigal de las de Silos D Ledesma x Peñaranda de Duero Vitigudino Tormes Altas Torres c El Burgo de Osma Peñaranda de v Soria Huebr SALAMANCA Bracamonte b Medinaceli La Fuente de Ág a Alba de Tormes Tours ueda Alaraz San Esteban 0 Sierra de Francia and Sierra de Bejar CIUDAD Vecinos Guarda RODRIGO Tamames El Bodón Peña de Francia FSRIAERNRCAIADE Piedrahíta La Alberguería 1732m de Argañán Sotoserrano Béjar S i s t e m a C e n t r a l Cáceres Pico Almanzor DE 2592m R RA de SIE Arenas Candeleda San Pedro 0 kilometres 50 0 miles 30 For keys to symbols see back flap
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 353 Getting Around Madrid makes a convenient spring board for touring in Castilla y León. The major cities of the region are connected by rail, but the coach is often a quicker alternative. If you intend on exploring rural areas or small towns, it is advisable to hire a car. Sunflowers growing in Burgos province Valnera 1718m Peña Prieta Santander Bercedo Key 2536m Medina de Pomar Motorway Guardo Cervera de Ebro Motorway under construction Pisuerga Frias Vitoria Major road (Gasteiz) Secondary road AGUILAR Scenic route DE CAMPOO Oña Main railway Minor railway Herrera de Villadiego BRIVIESCA Miranda International border Pisuerga de Ebro Saldaña Osorno Belorado Carrión de los Condes BURGOS Regional border Summit FRÓMISTA San PeSdierorrdaedCealradeDñeamanda Astudillo Quintanilla de las Viñas Yanguas PALENCIA suerga Arlanza COVARRUBIAS DSEierra de Urbión Iruña Pi MONASTERIO (Pamplona) LERMA SANTO DOMINGO Almarza Dueñas Baños Torresandino DE SILOS Vinuesa Numantia Ágreda de Cerrato Moncayo 2316m Y LEÓN Abejar SORIA Aranda de VALLADOLID Duero PEÑARANDA Calatañazor Almenar de Soria DE DUERO Simancas Duero Peñafiel Dura Riaza EL BURGO DE OSMA Maderuelo Berlanga Almazán Deza Cuéllar tón Ayllón de Duero Morón de Almazán CASTILLO Cega SEPÚLVEDA Boceguillas Ruinas de Villasayas Zaragoza DE COCA Tiermes Navalmanzano PEDRAZA DE LA SIERRA MEDINACELI Santa María Turégano de Huerta Arévalo Madrid SEGOVIA Riofrío Villacastín LA GRANJA DE ÁVILA SAN ILDEFONSO Madrid Navalperal de Pinares El Tiemblo GREDOS Toledo Sotillo Peñaranda de Duero castle
354 CENTRAL SPAIN 1 El Bierzo A palloza in the Sierra de Ancares To the north of the A6 highway lies the Sierra de Ancares, a León. £ Ponferrada. @ Ponferrada. operation. Using slave labour, wild region of rounded, slate n C/ Gil y Carrasco, Ponferrada, 987 millions of tonnes of alluvium mountains marking the borders 42 42 36. ∑ turismodelbierzo.es were washed from the hills of of Galicia and Asturias. Part of it Las Médulas by a complex now forms the Reserva Nacional This northwestern region of system of canals and sluice de los Ancares Leoneses, an León province was at one time gates. The ore was then panned, attractive nature reserve. The the bed of an ancient lake. and the gold dust collected heathland is home to deer, wolves, Sheltered by hills from the on sheep’s wool. It is estimated brown bears and capercaillies. worst extremes of Central that more than 500 tonnes of Spain’s climate, its sun-soaked, precious metal were extracted Several villages high in the alluvial soils make for fertile between the 1st and 4th hills contain pallozas – primitive, orchards and vineyards. Over centuries AD. These ancient pre-Roman stone dwellings. the centuries, the area has also workings lie within a memo- One of the most striking col- yielded rich mineral pickings rable landscape of wind-eroded lections can be found in isolated including coal, iron and gold. crags, and hills pierced by Campo del Agua, in the west. Many hiking routes and picnic tunnels and colonized by spots are within reach of the gnarled chestnut trees. You can E Herrería de Compludo main towns of Ponferrada and best appreciate the area from Compludo. Tel 661 250 756. Villafranca del Bierzo. a viewpoint at Orellán, which is Open Wed–Sun & public hols. & reached via a rough, steep track. In the eastern section, you Las Médulas, a village south > Las Médulas can trace the course of the old of Carucedo, is another place Tel 987 42 07 08. Open 11am–2pm, Road to Santiago (see pp86–7) to go for a fine view. 4–8pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). through the Montes de León, Closed public hols. & 8 past the pilgrim church and ∑ fundacionlasmedulas.org medieval bridge of Molinaseca. Turning off the road at the 2 Villafranca del remote village of El Acebo, Bierzo you pass through a deep valley where there are signs pointing León. * 3,500. @ n Avenida Díez to the Herrería de Compludo, Ovelar 10, 987 54 00 28. ( Tue. a water-powered 7th-century _ Santo Tirso (28 Jan), Spring Fiesta ironworks. The equipment still (1 May), Fiesta del Cristo (14 Sep). works and is demonstrated ∑ villafrancadelbierzo.org regularly, although the site is currently closed for restoration. Emblazoned mansions line the ancient streets of this delightful The Lago de Carucedo, to the town. The solid, early 16th- southwest of Ponferrada, is an century, drum-towered castle ancient artificial lake. It acted is still inhabited. Near the Plaza as a reservoir in Roman times, a Mayor a number of imposing by-product of a vast gold-mining Craggy, tree-clad hills around the ancient gold workings near the village of Las Médulas For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 355 churches and convents compete The imposing Templar castle of Ponferrada 10thcentury Mozarabic church for attention. Particularly worth has horseshoe arches above its seeing are the fine sculptures both iron and coal deposits, double portal. adorning the north portal of the Ponferrada has expanded into simple, Romanesque Iglesia de a sizable town. 4 Puebla de Santiago (open Jul–midSep). Sanabria At the church’s Puerta del Perdón Most of its attractions are (Door of Mercy), pilgrims who confined to the small old quar Zamora. * 1,500. £ @ n Muralla were too weak to make the final ter. Ponferrada’s majestic castle Mariquillo, 980 62 07 34. ( Fri. gruelling hike across the hills of was constructed between the _ Candelas (Feb), Las Victorias Galicia could obtain dispensation. 12th and 14th centuries by (8–9 Sep). ∑ pueblasanabria.com Also sample the local speciality, the Knights Templar to protect cherries in aguardiente, a spirit. pilgrims. During the Middle This attractive old village lies Ages it was one of the largest beyond the undulating broom Environs fortresses in northwest Spain. and oak scrub of the Sierra de One of the finest views over El la Culebra. A steep cobbled Bierzo is from Corullón, to the Standing on the main street leads past stone and south. This village with grey stone square is the Baroque town hall slate houses with huge, houses is set in a sunny location (ayuntamiento). One entrance to overhanging eaves and walls above the broad, fertile basin of the square, one of the gateways bearing coats of arms, to a the Río Burbia where the vines of the medieval wall, is straddled hilltop church and castle. of the Bierzo wine region flourish by a tall clock tower. Nearby is (see pp82–3). Two churches, the the Renaissance Basílica de la The village has become the late 11thcentury San Miguel Virgen de la Encina. The older centre of a popular inland hol and the Romanesque San Iglesia de Santo Tomás de las iday resort based around the Esteban, are worth a visit. Down Ollas is hidden away in the largest glacial lake in Spain, in the valley, the Benedictine town’s villagelike northern the Lago de Sanabria, now a monastery at Carracedo del suburbs. Mozarabic, Roman nature park. Among the many Monasterio stands in splendour. esque and Baroque elements activities available are fishing, Founded in 990, it was once combine in the architecture of walking and water sports. the most powerful religious this simple church. The 10th community in El Bierzo. century apse has beautiful Most routes beckon visitors to horseshoe arches. Ask at the Ribadelago, but the road to the Puerta del Perdón of Villafranca’s Iglesia nearest house for the key. The quaint hill village of San Martín de Santiago neighbour will open it for you. de Castañeda gives better views. There’s a small visitors’ centre 3 Ponferrada Environs for the nature reserve in San A drive through the idyllic Valle Martín’s restored monastery. León. * 68,700. £ @ n Calle Gil de Silencio (Valley of Silence), The village is very traditional – y Carrasco 4, 987 42 42 36. ( Wed & south of Ponferrada, follows a you may see cattle yoked to Sat. _ Virgen de la Encina (8 Sep). poplarlined stream past several carts, and women dressed ∑ ponferrada.org/turismo/en bucolic villages. The last and completely in black. most beautiful of these is Peñalba de Santiago. Its A medieval bridge reinforced The 12th-century church and 15th-century castle of Puebla de Sanabria with iron (pons ferrata), erected for the benefit of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, gave this town its name. Today, prosperous from
356 CENTRAL SPAIN Gaspar Becerra is a masterpiece 6 Cueva de of the Spanish Renaissance. Valporquero Among the many fine exhibits in the cathedral’s museum are León. Tel 987 57 64 08. Open mid- the 10th-century carved casket of Oct–Dec & Mar–mid-May: 10am–5pm Alfonso III the Great, the jewelled Thu–Sun, public hols; mid-May–mid- Reliquary of the True Cross and a Oct: 10am–6pm daily. & lavish silver monstrance studded ∑ cuevadevalporquero.es with enormous emeralds. This complex of limestone Opposite the cathedral is a caves – technically a single cave fairy-tale building of multiple with three separate entrances turrets and quasi-Gothic win- – is directly beneath the village dows. The unconventional of Valporquero de Torío. The Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s caves were formed in the Palace) was designed at the end Miocene period between 5 of the 19th century by Antoni and 25 million years ago. The nave of Astorga Cathedral Gaudí, the highly original Severe weather conditions 5 Astorga Modernista architect (see in the surrounding moun- León. * 11,900. £ @ n Plaza p168), for the incumbent tains make the caverns Eduardo de Castro 5. Tel 987 61 82 22. ( Tue. _ Roman Festival bishop, a fellow Catalan, inaccessible between (end Jun), Santa Marta (late Aug). ∑ aytoastorga.es after a fire in 1887 had December and Easter. The Roman town of Asturica destroyed the previous Less than half of the Augusta was a strategic halt on the Vía de la Plata (Silver Road), building. Its bizarre huge system, which a Roman road linking Andalucía and northwest Spain. Later it appearance as well stretches 3,100 m came to form a stage on the pilgrimage route to Santiago as its phenomenal (10,200 ft) under (see pp86–7). cost so horrified the the ground, is Soaring above the ramparts in the upper town are Astorga’s two diocese that no sub- open to the public. principal monuments, the cathe- dral and the Palacio Episcopal. sequent bishops ever lived in Guided tours take parties The cathedral was built between the 15th and the 18th centuries it. Today it houses an assembly through an impressive series and displays a variety of archi- tectural styles ranging from its of medieval religious art of galleries in which lighting Gothic apse to the effusive Baroque of its two towers, which devoted to the history of picks out the beautiful are carved with various biblical scenes. The gilt altarpiece by Astorga and the pilgrimage limestone concretions. to Santiago. Roman Iron and sulphur oxides relics, including coins Reliquary of the have tinted the rocks unearthed in the Plaza True Cross many subtle shades Romana, are evidence of of red, grey and Astorga’s importance as a black. The vast Gran Rotonda, Roman settlement. The palace’s covering an area of 5,600 sq m interior is decorated with Gaudí’s (18,350 sq ft) and reaching a ceramic tiles and stained glass. height of 20 m (65 ft), is the most stunning. P Palacio Episcopal As the interior is cold, and Plaza Eduardo de Castro. Tel 987 61 the surface often slippery, it is 68 82. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, Sun pm, public hols. & advisable to wear warm clothes and sturdy shoes. Illuminated stalactites hanging from the roof of one of the chambers in the Cueva de Valporquero For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 357 7 León León. * 131,700. £ @ n Plaza Regla 2, 987 23 70 82. ( Wed & Sat. _ San Juan and San Pedro (21–29 Jun), San Froilán (5 Oct). ∑ turismoleon.org Founded as a camp for the Frescoes in Colegiata de San Isidoro showing medieval seasonal tasks Romans’ Seventh Legion, León became the capital of a Renaissance architecture (see p29). Carrizo. The MUSAC, Museo de kingdom in the Middle Ages. Founded in the 12th century as Arte Contemporáneo de Castilla As such it played a central a monastery lodging pilgrims y León, has a radical, interactive role in the early years of the going to Santiago, the present approach to exhibiting Reconquest (see pp58–9). building was begun in 1513 as contemporary art. the headquarters of the Knights The city’s most important of Santiago. The main hall has Environs building – apart from its great a fine 16th-century coffered Around 30 km (20 miles) east cathedral (see pp358–9) – is the ceiling. A parador now occupies of León is the Iglesia de San Colegiata de San Isidoro, built the main part of the Hostal. Miguel de Escalada. Dating from into the Roman walls which The Museo de León has many the 10th century, it is one of the encircle the city. A separate treasures, including a haunting finest surviving churches built entrance leads through to the little ivory crucifix, the Cristo de by the Mozarabs – Christians Romanesque Panteón Real influenced by the Moors. It has (Royal Pantheon), the last resting Visigothic panels and stately place of more than 20 monarchs. horseshoe arches resting on It is superbly decorated with carved capitals. At Sahagún, carved capitals and 12th-century 70 km (40 miles) southeast of frescoes illustrating a variety of León, are the Mudéjar churches biblical and mythical subjects, as of San Tirso and San Lorenzo, well as scenes of medieval life. with triple apses and belfries. A colossal ruined castle The alleyways in the pictur- overlooks the Río Esla beside esque old quarter around the Valencia de Don Juan, 40 km Plaza Mayor are dotted with (25 miles) south of León. bars and cafés, decrepit mansions and churches. Two well- Maragatos dressed in E Museo de León preserved palaces stand near traditional costume Plaza Santo Domingo 8. Tel 987 23 to the Plaza de Santo Domingo: 64 05. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, the Palacio de los Guzmanes, Sun pm. & (free Sat & Sun). with its elegantly arcaded Renaissance patio, and Antoni E MUSAC Gaudí’s unusually restrained Avenida de los Reyes Leoneses 24. Casa de Botines. Tel 987 09 00 00. Open Tue–Sun. 7 & 8 (free 6pm Sun). ∑ musac.es The Hostal de San Marcos is a fine example of Spanish The Maragatos Astorga is the principal town of the Maragatos, an ethnic group of unknown origin, thought to be descended from 8th-century Berber invaders. By marrying only among themselves, they managed to preserve their customs through the centuries and keep them- selves apart from the rest of society. The demise of their traditional trade of mule- driving, however, changed their way of life and the Maragatos have adapted to contemporary life, although their typical gastronomy and craftwork still survive.
358 CENTRAL SPAIN Cathedral Museum Pedro de Campaña’s panel, The León Cathedral Adoration of the Magi, is one of the many magnificent treasures The master builders of this Spanish Gothic cathedral par excellence (see p28) were displayed in the museum. inspired by French techniques of vaulting and buttressing. The present structure of golden sandstone, built on the site of King Ordoño II’s 10th-century palace, was begun in the mid- 13th century and completed less than 100 years later. It combines a slender but very high nave with the huge panels of stained glass which are its most magnificent feature. Although the cathedral has survived for 700 years, today there is concern about air pollution attacking the soft stone. KEY 1 The West Rose Window is largely 14th-century and depicts the Virgin and Child, surrounded by 12 trumpet-blowing angels. 2 The silver reliquary is an ornate chest dating from the 16th century. 3 The 13th- to 14th-century cloister galleries are decorated with Gothic frescoes by Nicolás Francés. 4 The altarpiece includes five original panels created by Gothic master Nicolás Francés. 5 The choir has two tiers of 15th-century stalls. Behind it is the carved and gilded retrochoir, in the shape of a triumphal arch. Entrance . 13th-Century Carvings Among the Gothic carvings on the front of León’s cathedral, above the Puerta de la Virgen Blanca, is one depicting a scene from the Last Judgment. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 359 Inside the Cathedral VISITORS’ CHECKLIST The plan of the building is a Latin cross. The tall Practical Information nave is slender but long, Plaza de Regla. measuring 90 m (295 ft) Tel 987 87 57 70. by 40 m (130 ft) at its Open Oct–Apr: 9:30am–1:30pm widest. To appreciate the & 4–7pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–2pm dazzling colours of the Sun; May–Sep: hours vary, check stained glass it is best to website for details. 5 9am, visit on a sunny day. noon, 1pm & 6pm daily, plus 11am & 2pm Sun. ^ 7 Museum: Open Mon–Sat, check website for details. & ^ ∑ catedraldeleon.org The Virgen Blanca is a Gothic sculpture of a smiling Virgin. The original is kept in this chapel. A copy stands by the west door. . Stained Glass León’s Stained Glass The windows, covering an area of 1,900 sq m León Cathedral’s great glory is its (20,400 sq ft), are the magnificent glasswork. The 125 outstanding feature of large windows and 57 smaller, the cathedral. round ones date from every century from the 13th to the 20th. They cover an enormous range of subjects. Some reveal fascinating details about med- ieval life: La Cacería, in the north wall, depicts a typical hunting scene, while the rose window in the Capilla del Nacimiento shows pilgrims worshipping at the tomb of St James in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia (see pp96–7). Restoration work can be viewed from an elevated platform on a guided tour. A large window in León Cathedral
360 CENTRAL SPAIN 8 Zamora most important monument is its The allegorical carvings of nuns unique cathedral, a 12th-century and monks on the misericords Zamora. * 65,300. £ @ n Plaza structure built in Romanesque and armrests were once con- de Arias Gonzalo, 980 53 36 94. ( style but with a number of later sidered risqué. The museum, Tue. _ Semana Santa (Easter Week), Gothic additions. The building’s off the cloisters, has a collection San Pedro (23–29 Jun). ∑ zamora- most eye-catching feature is its of 15th- and 16th-century turismo.com striking, scaly, hemispherical Flemish tapestries. These dome. Inside, there are superb illustrate biblical passages and Little remains of Zamora’s past as iron grilles and Mudéjar pulpits classical and military scenes. an important strategic frontier surround Juan de Bruselas’ town. In Roman times, it was 15th-century choir stalls. Nearby, several churches on the Vía de la Plata (see p356), exhibit features characteristic and during the Reconquest was Peaceful gardens of the Colegiata de of Zamora’s architectural style, fought over fiercely. The city has Santa María in Toro notably multi-lobed arches now expanded far beyond its and heavily carved portals. original boundaries, but the The best are the 12th-century old quarter contains a wealth Iglesia de San Ildefonso and the of Romanesque churches. Iglesia de la Magdalena. The ruins of the city walls, built Another reason for visiting by Alfonso III in 893, are pierced by Zamora is for its lively Easter the Portillo de la Traición (Traitor’s Week celebrations, when elab- Gate), through which the orate pasos (sculpted floats) are murderer of Sancho II passed in paraded in the streets. Otherwise 1072. The 16th-century parador they can be admired in the (see p570) is in an old palace Museo de Semana Santa. with a Renaissance courtyard adorned with coats of arms. Environs The 7th-century Visigothic church Two other palaces, the Palacio of San Pedro de la Nave, 23 km de los Momos and the Palacio del (14 miles) northwest of Zamora, Cordón, have ornately carved is Spain’s oldest church. Carvings façades and windows. Zamora’s 0 Sierra de Francia 1 La Peña de Francia JCiudad Rodrigo and Sierra de Béjar Atop the windswept Agadón J These attractive schist hills buttress the peak is a 15th-century Coria western edges of the Sierra de Gredos Dominican monastery (see p366). Narrow roads wind their way sheltering a blackened through picturesque chestnut, olive and statue of the Virgin and almond groves, and quaint rural villages Child dating from 1890. of wood and stone. The highest point of the range is La Peña de Francia, which, at 2 La Alberca 1,732 m (5,700 ft), is easily recognizable This pretty and from miles around. The views from the much-visited peak, and from the roads leading up to village sells local it, offer a breathtaking panorama of the honey, hams and surrounding empty plains and rolling hills. handicrafts. On 15 August each year it celebrates the Assumption with a traditional mystery play per- formed in costume. Key 3 Las Batuecas Tour route The road from La Alberca Other roads careers down into a green valley, past the The unmistakable peak of La Peña de Francia monastery where Luis Buñuel made his film Tierra sin Pan (Land without Bread). For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 361 Fish-scale tiling on dome of Zamora Cathedral rise to fortification, and its robust 14th-century castle is adorn its capitals and friezes. Toro, 9 Ciudad Rodrigo now an atmospheric parador. 30 km (18 miles) east of Zamora, The prosperous 15th and 16th is at the heart of a wine region Salamanca. * 13,600. £ @ centuries were Ciudad Rodrigo’s (see pp344–5). The highlights of n Plaza Mayor 27, 923 49 84 00. heyday. During the War of Inde- its Colegiata de Santa María are ( Tue, Sat. _ San Sebastián pendence (see pp66–7), the city, the Gothic west portal and a fine (20 Jan), Carnaval del Toro (before then occupied by the French, 16th-century Hispano-Flemish Lent), Easter week, Charrada (mid-Jul). was besieged for two years painting, La Virgen de la Mosca. before falling to the Duke In 1476, the forces of Isabel I Despite its lonely setting – of Wellington’s forces. (see pp60–61) secured a victory stranded on the country’s over the Portuguese at Toro, western marches miles from The golden stone buildings confirming her succession to anywhere – this lovely old within the ramparts are delight- the Castile throne. town is well worth a detour. Its ful. The main monument is frontier location inevitably gave the cathedral (closed Mon pm), whose belfry still bears the marks of shellfire from the siege. The exterior has a shapely curved balustrade and accomplished portal carvings. Inside, it is worth seeing the cloisters and the choir stalls, carved with lively scenes by Rodrigo Alemán. In the adjacent 16th-century Capilla de Cerralbo (Cerralbo Chapel; only open to tourists in the summer) is a 17th-century altarpiece. Off the chapel’s south side is the arcaded Plaza del Buen Alcalde. 4 Miranda del Castañar 5 The narrow streets of this pretty, fortified village are lined with ancient houses with wide eaves. 5 0 kilometres 0 miles CepedaJ Salamanca MadronalJ Santibáñez Sotoserrano de la Sierra Cristóbal gón Ala 5 Béjar Sangusin La Calzada This textile town is strung out along de Béjar Tips for Drivers a ridge at the foot of the Sierra 6 Candelario J de Béjar. From the approach Tour length: 72 km (45 miles). The steep, cobbled road, 19th-century Stopping-off points: Candelario, streets are lined with factories and mills Miranda del Castañar and La deep channels and can be seen. Alberca all have good eating stormgates to cope with places, and are renowned for the spring meltwater from Salamanca their hams and sausages. In the surrounding mountains summer, refreshments are and flash floods. available from the hospedería (inn) in La Peña’s monastery. For keys to symbols see back flap
362 CENTRAL SPAIN q Street-by-Street: Salamanca The Casa de las Conchas is CALLE DEL PRADO easily identifiable from the The great university city of Salamanca is Spain’s finest showcase of Renaissance and Plateresque architecture. stone scallop shells that stud Founded as an Iberian settlement in pre-Roman times, its walls. It is now a library. the city fell to Hannibal in 217 BC. Pre-eminent among its artists and master craftsmen of later years were the The Palacio de Churriguera brothers (see p29). Their work can be seen in Monterrey is a many of Salamanca’s golden stone buildings, notably in Renaissance mansion. the Plaza Mayor. Other major sights are the two cathedrals and the 13th-century university, one of Casa de las Europe’s oldest and most distinguished. Convento de Muertes las Ursulas . Universidad In the centre of the university’s Palacio de elaborate façade is this medal Fonseca lion, carved in relief, which CALLE DE LA COMPAÑÍA depicts the Catholic Monarchs. . Catedral Vieja and CALLE DE SERRANOS Catedral Nueva CALLE DE LOS LIBREROS Despite being in different architectural styles, the adjoining old and new cathedrals blend well together. This richly coloured altarpiece painted in 1445 is in the old cathedral. Puente Romano CALLE VERACRUZ The Roman bridge across the Río Tormes, built in the 1st century AD, retains 15 of its original 26 arches. It provides an excellent view of the city. 0 metres 100 PASEO DEL 0 yards 100 Casa Lis, Museo de Art Decó y Art Nouveau For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
SALAMANCA 363 . Plaza Mayor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST This 18th-century square is one of Practical Information Spain’s largest Salamanca. * 152,000. and grandest. n Plaza Mayor 32, 923 21 83 42. On the east side is ( Sun. _ San Juan de the Royal Pavilion, Sahagún (10–12 Jun), Virgen decorated with a de la Vega (8–15 Sep). bust of Felipe V, who ∑ salamanca.es built the square. Transport Key ~ 15 km (9 miles) east. £ Paseo de la Estación, Suggested route 902 32 03 20. @ Avenida de Filiberto Villalobos 71, 923 23 67 17. MP LAAYZOAR DEL C P LA ZA O RR ILL O RÚA MAYOR CONSUELO Torre del Clavero This 15th-century tower still has its CALLE DE SAN PABLO DEL original turrets. They are adorned with the coats of arms of its founders, and CALLE Mudéjar trelliswork. VIA Iglesia-Convento GRAN de San Esteban The Plateresque façade of the church is carved with delicate relief. Above the door is a frieze decorated with medallions and coats of arms. PLAZ A RDEENL CO DE T TO NC I L I O ARROYO SANTO DOMINGO Convento de las Dueñas Sculptures on the capitals of the beautiful RECTOR ESPERABÉ two-storey cloister show demons, skulls and tormented faces, which contrast with serene carvings of the Virgin. For keys to symbols see back flap
364 CENTRAL SPAIN Exploring Salamanca P Plaza Mayor The majority of Salamanca’s This magnificent square was monuments are located inside built by Felipe V to thank the city the city centre, which is com for its support during the War of pact enough to explore on the Spanish Succession (see p66). foot. The university, the Plaza Designed by the Churriguera Mayor, and the old and new brothers (see p29) in 1729 and cathedrals are all unmissable. completed in 1755, it was once used for bullfights, but nowadays R Catedral Vieja and Façade of Salamanca University, on the is a delightful place to stroll or Catedral Nueva Patio de las Escuelas shop. Within the harmonious Tel 923 28 11 23. Open 10am–8pm blend of arcaded buildings and P Universidad cafés are the Baroque town hall daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm). Calle Libreros. Tel 923 29 44 00. and, opposite, the Royal Pavilion, Open daily. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, from where the royal family used ∑ catedralsalamanca.org 25 Dec and for official functions. to watch events in the square. & ∑ usal.es The Plaza Mayor is built of warm The new cathedral (built during golden sandstone, and is the 16th–18th centuries) did The university was founded especially resplendent at dusk. not replace the old, but was by Alfonso IX of León in 1218, built beside it. It combines a mix making it the oldest in Spain. Royal Pavilion in Salamanca’s beautiful of styles, being mainly Gothic, The 16thcentury façade of the Plaza Mayor with Renaissance and Baroque Patio de las Escuelas (Schools additions. The west front has Square) is a perfect example of R Iglesia-Convento de elaborate Late Gothic stonework. the Plateresque style (see p29). San Esteban Opposite is a statue of Fray Luis Plaza del Concilio de Trento s/n. The 12th to 13thcentury de León, who taught theology Tel 923 21 50 00. Open 10am–2pm, Romanesque old cathedral is here. His former lecture room 4–6pm daily. Closed public hols. & entered through the new one. is preserved in its original style. The 16thcentury church of this The highlight is a 53panel altar The Escuelas Menores building Dominican monastery has an piece, painted in lustrous colours houses a huge zodiac fresco, ornamented façade. The relief by Nicolás Florentino. It frames The Salamanca Sky. on the central panel, completed a statue of Salamanca’s patron by Juan Antonio Ceroni in 1610, saint, the 12thcentury Virgen depicts the stoning of St Stephen, de la Vega, crafted in Limoges to whom the monastery is dedi enamel. In the vault above is a cated. Above is a frieze with fresco depicting scenes from the figures of children and horses. Last Judgment, also by Florentino. The interior is equally The 15thcentury Capilla de stunning. The ornate altarpiece, Anaya (Anaya Chapel) contains of twisted gilt columns deco the superb 15thcentury alabas rated with vines, is the work ter tomb of Diego de Anaya, an of José Churriguera and dates archbishop of Salamanca. from 1693. Below it is one of Claudio Coello’s last paintings, Salamanca’s double cathedral, towering over the city another representation of the For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5 martyrdom of St Stephen. The doublegalleried Claustro de los Reyes, completed in Plateresque style in 1591, has capitals that are carved with the heads of the prophets.
SALAMANCA 365 wonderfully accomplished example of the early Plateresque style. The adjacent house is where author and philosopher Miguel de Unamuno died in 1936. The CasaMuseo de Unamuno, next door to the university, contains information about his life. Sculpted shells on the walls of the Casa de las Conchas P Torre del Clavero Plaza de Colón. Closed to the public. P Casa de las Conchas Renaissance palace in 1521, and The tower is the last vestige of Calle de la Compañía 2. Tel 923 26 the coat of arms of the Fonseca a palace that once stood here. 93 17. Open Mon–Sat. Library: Open family appears over the main It was built around 1480 and is 9am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat. entrance. Its name arises from named after a former resident, the fact that it became a semi the key warden (clavero) of the This mansion’s name – House nary for Irish priests at the end of Order of Alcántara. of the Shells – derives from the the 19th century. The interior stone scallop shells that cover Italianate courtyard has a first Tower opposite Casa de las Muertes its walls. They are a symbol of floor gallery and a chapel. Today the Order of Santiago, one of it is used as a hotel, restaurant Environs whose knights, Rodrigo Arias and university premises. Northwest of the city, the Maldonado, built the mansion in Río Tormes leads through the the early 1500s. He also adorned R Convento de las Úrsulas fortified old town of Ledesma, it with his family’s coat of arms. Calle de las Úrsulas 2. Tel 923 21 98 77. across lonely countryside to It now houses a public library. Open Tue–Sun. Closed last Sun of the Arribes del Duero, a series month. & of massive reservoirs near to R Convento de las Dueñas the Portuguese border. Pl del Concilio de Trento 1. Tel 923 21 In the church of this convent is 54 42. Open 10:30am–12:45pm, 4:30– the carved tomb of its founder, Dominating the town of Alba 6:45pm Mon–Sat. Closed pub hols. & Alonso de Fonseca, the powerful de Tormes, 20 km (12 miles) east 16thcentury Archbishop of of Salamanca, is the Torre de la The main feature of this Santiago. The museum includes Armería, the only remaining Dominican convent, beside fine paintings by Luis de Morales. part of the castle of the Dukes San Esteban, is its Renaissance of Alba. The Iglesia de San Juan double cloister, whose tranquil P Casa de las Muertes was built in the 12th century gardens seem strangely at odds Calle Bordadores. Closed to the public. in Romanesque style. The with the grotesques carved on The House of the Dead takes its IglesiaConvento de las Madres the capitals. The cloister also name from the small skulls that Carmelitas was founded by preserves tiled Moorish arches. embellish its façade. Grotesques St Teresa of Ávila in 1571, and is and other figures also feature, where her remains are now kept. E Casa Lis Museo Art and there is a cornice decorated Nouveau y Art Deco with cherubs. The façade is a The castle of Buen Amor, Calle Gibraltar 14. Tel 923 12 14 25. 24 km (15 miles) to the north, Open Tue–Sun. & (free Thu am). was founded in 1227. Later, it was used by the Catholic 7= Monarchs while fighting Juana la Beltraneja (see p60). Today it is This important art collection, a hotel but can still be visited. housed in a 19thcentury building, includes paintings, jewellery and furniture from all over Europe. Individual rooms are devoted to porcelain and Limoges enamel, and stainedglass work by Lalique. P Colegio de Fonseca or Skull carving on the façade of the Casa de de los Irlandeses las Muertes Calle de Fonseca 4. Tel 923 29 45 70. Open daily. & The Archbishop of Toledo, Alfonso de Fonseca, built this
366 CENTRAL SPAIN w Sierra de Gredos Ávila. @ Navarrendonda. n Navarrendonda, Calle del Río s/n, 920 34 80 01. ∑ gredosturismo.com This great mountain range, west The Toros de Guisando near El Tiemblo in the Sierra de Gredos of Madrid, has abundant wildlife, especially ibex and birds of El Tiemblo, in the east, stand to Salamanca. Built in the prey. Some parts have been developed to cater for week- the Toros de Guisando, four 11th century, the walls are over enders who come skiing, fishing, hunting or hiking. Tourism here stone statues resembling bulls, 2 km (1 mile) long. They are isn’t a recent phenomenon – Spain’s first parador opened believed to be of Celtiberian punctuated by 88 sturdy turrets, in Gredos in 1928. Despite this, there are many traditional origin (see pp52–3). on which storks can be seen villages off the beaten track. nesting in season. The ground The slopes on the south side of the range, extending into e Ávila falls away very steeply from the Extremadura, are fertile and walls on three sides, making sheltered, with pinewoods, and apple and olive trees. The Ávila. * 59,000. £ @ n Avenida the city practically impregnable. northern slopes, in contrast, de Madrid 39, 920 35 40 00. Walls: The east side, however, is have a covering of scrub and Open Tue–Sun (also Mon in a scattering of granite boulders. summer). & ( Fri. _ San relatively flat, and there- Segundo (2 May); Sta Teresa (15 fore had to A single main road, the N502, Oct). ∑ avilaturismo.com be fortified crosses the centre of the range via the Puerto del Pico, a pass more heavily. at 1,352 m (4,435 ft), leading to Arenas de San Pedro, the largest The oldest sections town of the Sierra de Gredos. On this road is the castle of At 1,131 m (3,710 ft) of the wall are here. Mombeltrán, built at the end above sea level, Ávila They are guarded by of the 14th century. de los Caballeros (“of the the most impressive of Near Ramacastañas, south of the town of Arenas de San Knights”) is the highest the city’s nine gateways, Pedro, are the limestone caverns of the Cuevas del Águila. provincial capital in Spain. the Puerta de San The sierra’s highest summit, In winter access roads can Vicente. The apse of the the Pico Almanzor (2,592 m/ 8,500 ft) dominates the west. be blocked with snow. cathedral also forms part Around it lies the Reserva Nacional de Gredos, protecting The centre of the city is of the walls. The cathedral’s the mountain’s wildlife. Near encircled by the finest- war-like (and unfinished) preserved medieval walls exterior, decorated with in Europe. The walls are Tuna in Ávila beasts and scaly wild open to visitors (except men, is an unusual Monday and in low season). design. The interior is a mixture One of the best views of of Romanesque and Gothic styles the walls is from Los Cuatro using an unusual mottled red Postes (Four Posts) on the road and white stone. Finer points The superbly preserved 11th-century walls, punctuated with 88 cylindrical towers, which encircle Ávila For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 367 to note are the carvings on the retrochoir and, in the apse, the tomb of a 15th-century bishop known as El Tostado, “the Tanned One”, because of his dark complexion. Many churches and convents in Ávila are linked to St Teresa, who was born in the city. The Convento de Santa Teresa was built on the site of her home within the walls and she also lived for more than 20 years in the Monasterio de la Encarnación outside the walls. There is even a local sweetmeat, yemas de Santa Beautiful gardens and palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso Teresa, named after the saint. da Gloria of Santiago Cathedral r La Granja de San The Basílica de San Vicente, Ildefonso also located just outside the (see pp96–7). Inside, the carved Segovia. Tel 921 47 00 19. @ from eastern walls, is Ávila’s most tomb of St Vincent and his Madrid or Segovia. Open 10am–8pm important Romanesque church, sisters depicts their hideous Tue–Sun (to 6pm Oct–Mar); gardens distinguished by its ornament- martyrdom in detail. Another open until dusk. Closed 1, 6 & 23 Jan, ed belfry. It was begun in the Romanesque-Gothic church 1 May, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & (free from 11th century but has some worth seeing is the Iglesia de 3pm Wed & Thu for EU residents; Gothic features which were San Pedro. from 5pm Apr–Sep). 8 added later. The west doorway ∑ webdelagranja.com is often compared to the Pórtico Some way from the centre is the Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás, with three cloisters. The middle one, carved with This royal pleasure palace, a the yoke and arrow emblem of project launched by Felipe V the Catholic Monarchs, is the in 1720, is set against the back- most beautiful. The last cloister drop of the Sierra de Guadarrama leads to a museum displaying mountains, on the site of the chalices and processional crosses. old Convento de Jerónimos. The church contains the tomb A guided tour meanders of Prince Juan, the only son of through countless impressive Fernando and Isabel. In the salons decorated with ornate sacristy lies another historic objets d’art and Classical frescoes figure: Tomás de Torquemada, against settings of marble, gilt head of the Inquisition (see p60). and velvet. Huge glittering In Ávila, you may see groups chandeliers, produced locally, of tunas – students dressed in hang from the ceiling. In the traditional costume walking the private apartments there are Cloisters of the Real Monasterio de Santo town’s streets while singing superb tapestries. The church Tomás in Ávila songs and playing guitars. is adorned in lavish high Baroque style, and the Royal St Teresa of Jesus Mausoleum contains the tomb of Felipe V and his queen. Teresa de Cepeda y Ahumada (1515–82) was one of the Catholic In the gardens, stately chest- Church’s greatest mystics and reformers. When nut trees, clipped hedges and aged just 7, she ran away from home in the statues frame a complex series hope of achieving martyrdom at the hands of pools. On 30 May, 25 July and 25 August each year all of the of the Moors, only to be recaptured by spectacular fountains are set in motion. Between May and her uncle on the outskirts of the city. July, four fountains run every Wednesday and Saturday at She became a nun at 19 but rebelled 5:30pm, and Sunday at 1pm. against her order. From 1562, when The Real Fábrica de Cristales de La Granja (Royal Glass she founded her first convent, she Manufacture) is also worth a visit. Founded in 1727, it still travelled around Spain with her produces high-quality pieces, and it includes a glass museum. disciple, St John of the Cross, founding more convents for the followers of her order, the Barefoot Carmelites. Her remains Statue of St Teresa of Jesus are in Alba de Tormes near in the city of Ávila Salamanca (see p365).
368 CENTRAL SPAIN Convento PA S E O DE SANTO DOMINGO de los Carmelitas DE GUZMAN Monasterio El Parral Iglesia de la Vera Cruz VDEIUPECCLdGTRAaeEOEZNsIRNAaSI(IAAAeMdgeuoClsvUeSiEoaoOSZ)lTOADCPESADaLPLEAnuLLNEeAOIErJDSnVAtUaEdEHAnSrNdVadéYECenOrsILAIéASPLFsRRLLDEAOEZMMDAPDCEEKLE.RDAEDDCSLEZAEAEAOSDCAIZNatVhAeLDECdEN.LrMETDAaÍSPANRElTLRCSQEASOaIUBAZgCnCÉAANSlooNeErnsspitvaLPueDeLMPsbdEAnLLaeCAZtAAAonhYZGCPrODAdOiULEsRe.RILtLDlCPiAEU.CLCSD.SM.EDaDiESSnEgLAAPJuGLPNUNDPALAUeOAAMMNZElCZASVIBAALTREA.lLORACoHODDRAVRTPCPAasUEENO-ÍLNaSIsDoEPAgaRalnEiZalcTneALddcOoVsieeMSOsoiEasLBaAdddIrSSeeteCPCíHlnOMOoaidssaaanlAdsgSSiqeAoleSlluNabaCeAnaAAGdLsUZALJuPtESPSOCuVLicDLaáIAGIaaEgtNAEEnnNZbUnlZLAeDEAaDdsJAlDDOiDlEeÑaeEOLPECOrLlCMAdCooOAPHROeILZssLPNDTEMAANLGISELAZDETVOLALZNEEEAAADRADLÍERAELEGAMSDASOODLRRIIDIAD,P Río CAlcázar ASEO D E D O N la m ores VEASCUDEROS UZMÁN DT SeIggloesviaiadeCSiatnyJCuaenntre1 O AdqeuelodsuCcat balleros2 Casa de los Picos3 4 Iglesia de San Martín SANCTI Iglesia de San Millan SPIRITU Riofrío 5 San Miguel 0 metres 100 6 Cathedral 0 yards 100 For keys to symbols see back flap 7 Alcázar t Segovia grilles enclose the side chapels. de los Caballeros, which The chapterhouse museum, features an outstanding Segovia. * 54,900. £ @ with a coffered ceiling, houses sculptured portico, San Martín n Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 921 46 17th-century Brussels tapestries. with its beautiful arcades 67 20. ( Thu & Sat. _ San Pedro and capitals, and San Miguel, (29 Jun), San Frutos (25 Oct). At the city’s western end is where Isabel the Catholic was ∑ turismodesegovia.com the Alcázar (see pp348–9). crowned Queen of Castille. Rising sheer above crags with Just inside the city walls, Casa Segovia is the most spectacu- a multitude of gabled roofs, de los Picos has a unique larly sited city in Spain. The old turrets and crenellations, it façade adorned with diamond- town is set high on a rocky appears like the archetypal shaped stones. spur and surrounded by the fairy-tale castle. The present Río Eresma and Río Clamores. building is mostly a fanciful Environs It is often compared to a ship – reconstruction following a fire The vast palace of Riofrío, the Alcázar on its sharp crag in 1862. It contains a museum 11 km (7 miles) to the south- forming the prow, the pinnacles of weaponry and a series of west, is located in a deer of the cathedral rising like elaborately decorated rooms. park. It was built as a hunting masts, and the aqueduct trailing Climb the keep for great views. lodge in 1752, and has richly behind like a rudder. The view decorated rooms. of it from the valley below at Notable churches include sunset is magical. the Romanesque San Juan The aqueduct, in use until the The imposing Gothic cathedral of Segovia late 19th century, was built at the end of the 1st century AD by the Romans, who turned the ancient town into an important military base. The cathedral, dating from 1525 and consecrated in 1678, is the last great Gothic church in Spain. It was built to replace the old cathedral, which was destroyed in 1520 during the revolt of the Castilian towns (see p62). The cloister, however, survived and was rebuilt on the new site. The pinnacles, flying buttresses, tower and dome form an impressive silhouette, while the interior is light and elegantly vaulted. Ironwork For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
Alcázar de Segovia hilltop castle with the 15th- León’s most memorable fort- Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia. century Iglesia de San Miguel. resses. It was used more as Tel 921 46 07 59. Open daily. Closed a residential palace than a 1 & 6 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec. & (free for EU u Sepúlveda defensive castle, although its residents 3rd Tue of each month). turrets and battlements are a 7 8 ∑ alcazardesegovia.com Segovia. * 1,300. n C/ Santos Justo fine example of Mudéjar military y Pastor 8, 921 54 04 25 (closed Mon architecture. The complex P Palacio de Riofrío Jul–Sep; Mon, Tue Oct–Jun). ( Wed. moated structure comprises Tel 921 47 00 19. Open Tue–Sun. _ Los Toros (last week of Aug). three concentric walls around & (free for EU res Wed pm & Thu pm). a massive keep. It is now a ∑ patrimonionacional.es On a slope above the Río forestry school, with a display Duratón, this picturesque town of Romanesque woodcarvings. y Pedraza de offers views of the Sierra de la Sierra Guadarrama. Parts of its medieval Environs walls and castle survive. Of its The 14th-century castle of Segovia. * 500. n C/ Real 3, 921 50 several Romanesque churches, Arévalo in Avila, 26 km (16 miles) 86 66 (closed Mon & Tue). _ Nuestra the Iglesia del Salvador, behind southwest, is where Isabel I Señora la Virgen del Carrascal (8 Sep). the main square, is notable for spent her childhood. The possessing one of the oldest porticoed Plaza de la Villa is The aristocratic little town of atria in Spain (1093). surrounded by some attractive Pedraza de la Sierra is perched half-timbered houses. high over rolling countryside. Environs Within its medieval walls, old Winding through a canyon Massive keep of the 15th-century streets lead to the porticoed haunted by griffon vultures is Castillo de Coca Plaza Mayor (see p31). The huge the Río Duratón, 7 km (4 miles) castle, standing on a rocky west of Sepúlveda. This area outcrop, was owned by Basque of striking beauty has been artist Ignacio Zuloaga (1870– designated the Parque Natural 1945). The castle museum de las Hoces del Duratón. Ayllón, 45 km (28 miles) northeast of Sepúlveda, has an arcaded main square and the Plateresque (see p29) Palacio de Juan de Contreras of 1497. The Iberian and Roman ruins at Tiermes, 28 km (17 miles) further southeast, have been partially excavated, and finds can be seen in Soria’s Museo Numantino (see p381).
Castillo de la Mota lished with angels and coats Tel 983 81 00 63. Open Tue–Sun pm. of arms in Plateresque style. Closed public hols. 8 only. Among the other noteworthy ∑ castillodelamota.es churches are Santa María la Antigua, with its Romanesque p Tordesillas Valladolid. * 9,000. @ n Casas del Tratado, 983 77 10 67 (closed Mon). ( Tue. _ Fiestas de la Peña (mid Sep). ∑ tordesillas.net This pleasant town is where the historic treaty between Spain and Portugal was signed in 1494, dividing the lands of the New World (see p60). A fateful oversight by the Spanish map makers left the immense prize of Brazil to Portugal. The town’s main place to visit is the Monasterio de Santa Clara. It was constructed by For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 371 belfry, and the Iglesia de Las Antonio Moro’s Calvary, in the Museo converted by Charles V into Angustias, where Juan de Nacional de Escultura, Valladolid Spain’s national archive. The Juni’s fine sculpture of the Visigothic church in the village Virgen de los Cuchillos (Virgin They include Juan de Juni’s of Wamba, 15 km (9 miles) to of the Knives) is on display. emotive depiction of the burial the west, contains the tomb of Christ and Recumbent Christ of King Recceswinth. P Casa de Cervantes by Gregorio Fernández. An Calle Rastro s/n. Tel 983 30 88 10. Alonso Berruguete altarpiece, An unusual long, narrow Open Tue–Sun. Closed pub hols. and walnut choir stalls by 15th-century castle on a ridge & (free Sun am). Diego de Siloé and other overlooks the wine town of ∑ museocasacervantes.mcu.es artists, are among the other Peñafiel, 60 km (40 miles) east fine works to be found here. of Valladolid (see p349). The author of Don Quixote (see p38) lived in this simple The building itself is worthy s Medina de house with whitewashed walls of attention, particularly the Rioseco from 1603 to 1606. The rooms Plateresque staircase, the chapel contain some of Cervantes’ by Juan Güas, and the patio of Valladolid. * 5,000. @ n Paseo de original furnishings. twisted columns and delicate San Francisco, 983 72 03 19 (closed basket arches. The façade is a fine Mon). ( Wed. _ Easter week; San R Cathedral example of Isabelline (see p28) Juan (24 Jun), Virgen del Castillviejo Calle Arribas 1. Tel 983 30 43 62. Closed sculpture, portraying a melee of (8 Sep). ∑ medinaderioseco.com Mon. & (Oct–Jun: free Thu). 8 by naked children scrambling about appt. ∑ catedral-valladolid.com in thorn trees and strange beasts. During the Middle Ages this town grew wealthy from the Work started on the unfinished The nearby 16th-century profitable wool trade, enabling cathedral in 1580 by Felipe II’s Palacio de Villena displays the it to commission leading artists, favourite architect, Juan de valuable Belén Napolitano mainly of the Valladolid school, Herrera, but lost momentum (Naples Christmas crib). to decorate its churches. The over the centuries. Churri- dazzling star vaulting and superb gueresque (see p29) flourishes E Patio Herreriano Museo woodwork of the Iglesia de on the façade are in contrast de Arte Contemporáneo Santa María de Mediavilla, in the to the sombre, square-pillared Español centre of town, are evidence of interior, whose only redeeming Calle Jorge Guillén 6. Tel 983 36 27 71. this. Inside, the Los Benavente flamboyance is a Juan de Juni Open Tue–Sun. Closed Sun pm. & Chapel is a tour de force, with a altarpiece. The Museo Diocesano 7 ∑ museopatioherreriano.org colourful stucco ceiling by inside, however, contains some Jerónimo del Corral (1554), and fine religious art and sculpture. This private collection of an altarpiece by Juan de Juni. contemporary Spanish art E Museo Nacional opened in 2002, housed in the The interior of the Iglesia de de Escultura former Monastery of San Benito Santiago is stunning, with a Cadenas de S Gregorio 1, 2 & 3. Tel with its fine cloisters. More than triple altarpiece designed by 983 25 03 75. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 800 works by 200 Spanish artists the Churriguera brothers of Sun pm, public hols. & (free Sat pm are displayed, including work Salamanca (see p29). & Sun). ∑ museoescultura.mcu.es by Joan Miró, Eduardo Chillida, Antoni Tàpies and Miquel Barceló. The ancient buildings on This permanent art collection Medina de Rioseco’s main in the 15th-century Colegio de street, the Calle de la Rúa, are San Gregorio consists mainly of supported on wooden pillars, wooden religious sculptures forming shady porticoes. from the 13th to 18th centuries. Façade of Colegio de San Environs Altarpiece by Juan de Juni, Iglesia de Santa Gregorio, Valladolid The moated grey castle that María de Mediavilla dominates the village of Simancas, 11 km (7 miles) southwest of Valladolid, was
372 CENTRAL SPAIN Castilla y León’s The beautiful carved retrochoir of Environs Fiestas Palencia Cathedral Baños de Cerrato, 12 km (7 miles) to the south, boasts the tiny El Colacho (Sun after Corpus d Palencia Visigothic Iglesia de San Juan Christi, May/Jun), Castrillo Bautista, founded in 661. It is de Murcia (Burgos). Babies Palencia. * 81,200. £ @ n Calle alleged to be the oldest intact born during the previous 12 Mayor 31, 979 70 65 23. ( Tue, Wed. church in Spain. Carved capitals months are dressed in their _ Virgen de la Calle (2 Feb). 8 and horseshoe arches decorate best Sunday clothes and laid ∑ palenciaturismo.es the interior. on mattresses in the streets. Crowds of people, including f Frómista the anxious parents, watch as El Colacho – a man dressed Palencia. * 820. £ @ n Barrio in a bright red and yellow del Canal s/n, 672 14 69 94. ( Fri. costume – jumps over the _ San Telmo (week after Easter). babies in order to free them ∑ fromista.es from illnesses, especially hernias. He is said to represent This town on the Road to the Devil fleeing from the Santiago de Compostela (see sight of the Eucharist. This pp86–7) is the site of one of ritual is thought to have Spain’s purest Romanesque originated in 1621. churches. The Iglesia de San Martín is the highlight of the El Colacho jumping over babies in In medieval times, Palencia was town, partly due to a restoration a royal residence and the site of in 1904, leaving the church, Castrillo de Murcia Spain’s first university, founded dating from 1066, entirely in 1208. The city gradually Romanesque in style. The St Agatha’s Day (Sun closest diminished in importance presence of Pagan and Roman to 5 Feb), Zamarramala following its involvement in motifs suggest it may have (Segovia). Every year two the failed revolt of the Castilian pre-Christian origins. Nearby, women are elected as towns of 1520 (see p62). the Iglesia de San Pedro has mayoresses to run the village notable Renaissance and on the day of St Agatha, Although Palencia has since Gothic sculptures. patron saint of married expanded considerably on women. They ceremonially profits from coal and wheat, its Environs burn a stuffed figure centre, by the old stone bridge Carrión de los Condes, 20 km representing a man. over the Río Carrión, remains (12 miles) to the northwest, is Good Friday, Valladolid. almost village-like. also on the Road to Santiago. The procession of 28 multi- The frieze on the door of the coloured sculptures, which The city’s main sight is the Iglesia de Santiago depicts depict various scenes of cathedral, known as La Bella not religious figures but local the Passion, is one of the Desconocida (the Unknown artisans. There are carvings most spectacular in Spain. Beauty). It is especially worth of bulls on the façade of Fire-walking (23 Jun), a visit for its superb works of the 12th-century Iglesia San Pedro Manrique (Soria). art, many the result of Bishop de Santa María del Camino. Men, some carrying people Fonseca’s generous patronage. The Monasterio de San Zoilo on their backs, walk barefoot The retrochoir, exquisitely has a Gothic cloister and now over burning embers. sculpted by Gil de Siloé and operates as a hotel. It is said that only local Simon of Cologne, and the two people can do this altarpieces, are also noteworthy. Interior of the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista without being burned. The altarpiece above the high at Baños de Cerrato altar was carved by Philippe de Bigarny early in the 16th century. The inset panels are by Juan de Flandes, Isabel I’s court painter. Behind the high altar is the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, with an altarpiece dating from 1529 by Valmaseda. In this chapel, high on a ledge to the left, is the colourful tomb of Doña Urraca of Navarra. Below the retrochoir, a Plateresque (see p29) staircase leads down to the fine Visigothic crypt. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 373 h Briviesca Burgos. * 7,700. £ @ n Calle Santa María Encimera 1, 947 59 39 39. ( first Sat of month. _ Feria de San José (19 Mar), Santa Casilda (9 May). ∑ turismo-briviesca.com Posada of the Monasterio de Santa María la Real, Aguilar de Campoo This walled town, in the north- east of Burgos province, has Located at Gañinas, 20 km Mountains is the old fortified an arcaded main square and (12 miles) to the northwest (just town of Aguilar de Campoo. In several mansions. The best south of Saldaña), is the Roman the centre of its ancient porticoed known of its churches is the villa, La Olmeda. It has a number main square is the bell tower of Convento de Santa Clara, with of mosaics, including a hunting the Colegiata de San Miguel. its 16th-century walnut reredos scene. Finds are shown in the In this church is a mausoleum carved with religious scenes. In archaeological museum in the containing the tomb of the 1387 Juan I of Aragón created Iglesia de San Pedro in Saldaña. Marquises of Aguilar. Ask at the title Príncipe de Asturias for the priest’s house for the key. his son, Enrique, in the town. The T Villa Romana La Olmeda Santuario de Santa Casilda, sit- Pedrosa de la Vega. Tel 979 11 99 97. Among the other places of uated outside Briviesca, has Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 24, interest are the Ermita de a collection of votive objects. 25 & 31 Dec. & includes museum. 8 Santa Cecilia, and the restored Romanesque-Gothic Monasterio Environs g Aguilar de de Santa María la Real, which Oña, 25 km (15 miles) Campoo has a friendly posada (inn). north, is an attractive town. A Benedictine monastery Palencia. * 7,300. £ @ n Paseo Environs was founded here in 1011. de la Cascajera, 10, 979 12 36 41 Six km (4 miles) south, at Olleros (closed Mon, Tue & Sun pm). ( Tue. de Pisuerga, is a church built Overlooking a fertile valley, _ San Juan y San Pedro (23–29 Jun), in a cave. From the parador at 20 km (12 miles) further north- Virgen del Llano (1st Sun in Sep). Cervera de Pisuerga, 25 km east, is the little hilltop town ∑ aguilardecampoo.com (15 miles) northwest of Aguilar, of Frías. Its castle overlooks there are stunning views, and cobbled streets and pretty old Situated between the parched tours of the Reserva Nacional de houses. Crossing the Río Ebro is plains of Central Spain and the Fuentes Carrionas. This is a rugged a fortified medieval bridge, still lush foothills of the Cantabrian region overlooked by Curavacas, with its central gate tower. a 2,540-m (8,333-ft) peak. At Medina de Pomar, 30 km (20 miles) north of Oña, there is a 15th-century castle, once the seat of the Velasco family. Inside are the ruins of a palace with fine Mudéjar stucco decoration and Arabic inscriptions. The medieval bridge over the Río Ebro at Frías, with its central gate tower
374 CENTRAL SPAIN Flemish triptych inside the collegiate k Burgos Cordón, a 15th-century palace church in Covarrubias (now a bank) which has a Burgos. * 180,000. £ @ n Plaza Franciscan cord motif carved j Covarrubias de Alonso Martínez 7, 947 20 31 25. over the portal. A plaque ( Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun. _ San Lesmes declares that this is where the Burgos. * 630. @ n Calle (30 Jan); Pedro and San Pablo (29 Jun). Catholic Monarchs welcomed Monseñor Vargas, 947 40 64 61 ∑ turismoburgos.org Columbus on his return, in 1497, (closed Sun pm, Mon; Mon–Wed from the second of his famous in winter). ( Tue. _ San Cosme Founded in 884, Burgos has voyages to the Americas. and San Damián (26–27 Sep). played a significant political and military role in Spanish history. The lacy, steel-grey spires Named after the reddish caves It was the capital of the united of the cathedral (see pp376–7) on its outskirts, Covarrubias kingdoms of Castile and León are a prominent landmark from stands on the banks of the Río from 1073 until losing that almost anywhere in the city. Arlanza. Medieval walls surround honour to Valladolid after the fall On the rising ground behind the charming old centre with its of Granada in 1492 (see pp60–61). it stands the restored Iglesia arcaded half-timbered houses During the 15th and 16th de San Nicolás, whose main (see p30). The distinguished centuries, Burgos grew rich feature is a superb altarpiece by collegiate church (closed Tue) from the wool trade and used Simon of Cologne (1505). Other shows the historical importance its riches to finance most of churches worth visiting are the of Covarrubias: here is the tomb the great art and architecture Iglesia de San Lorenzo, with its of Fernán González, first which can be seen in the city superb Baroque ceiling, and the independent Count of Castile, today. Less auspiciously, Franco Iglesia de San Esteban, which and one of the great figures in chose Burgos as his Civil War houses the Museo del Retablo, Castilian history. By uniting headquarters (see pp70–71). open to the public during several fiefs against the Moors summer. The Iglesia de Santa in the 10th century, he started The city’s strategic location on Águeda is the place where the rise in Castilian power that the main Madrid–France highway El Cid made King Alfonso VI ensured the resulting kingdom and on the route to Santiago (see swear that he played no part in of Castile would play a leading pp86–7) ensure many visitors; but the murder of his elder brother, role in the unification of Spain. even without this Burgos would King Sancho II (see p360). The church museum contains justify a long detour. Despite its a Flemish triptych of the Ador- size and extremes of climate, it is The Arco de Santa María in Burgos, adorned ation of the Magi, attributed to one of most agreeable provincial with statues and turrets the school of Gil de Siloé, capitals in Castilla y León. and a 17th-century organ. Approach via the bridge of Environs Santa María, which leads into the A short distance east along the old quarter through the restored Río Arlanza lies the ruins of the Arco de Santa María, a gateway 11th-century Romanesque carved with statues of various monastery of San Pedro de local worthies. The main bridge Arlanza. At Quintanilla de las into the city, however, is the Viñas, 24 km (15 miles) north Puente de San Pablo, where of Covarrubias, is a ruined 7th- a statue commemorates the century Visigothic church. The city’s hero, El Cid. Not far from reliefs on the columns of the the bridge stands the Casa del triumphal arch are remarkable, depicting sun and moon El Cid (1043–99) symbols that may be pagan. Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar was born into a noble family in Vivar del Cid, north of Burgos, in 1043. He served Fernando I, but was banished from Castile after becoming embroiled in the fratricidal squabbles of the king’s sons, Sancho II and Alfonso VI. He switched allegiance to fight for the Moors, then changed side again, capturing Valencia for the Christians in 1094, ruling the city until his death. For his heroism he was named El Cid, from the Arabic Sidi (Lord). He was a charismatic man of great courage, but it was an anonymous poem, El Cantar de Mío Cid, in 1180, that immortalized him as a romantic hero of the Reconquest (see pp58–9). The tombs of El Cid and his wife, Jimena, are in Burgos Cathedral. Equestrian statue of El Cid For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
376 CENTRAL SPAIN Burgos Cathedral West Front The lacy, steel-grey spires Spain’s third-largest cathedral was founded in 1221 by soar above a sculpted Bishop Don Mauricio under Fernando III. The ground plan – balustrade depicting a Latin cross – measures 84 m (92 yards) by 59 m (65 yards). Castile’s early kings. Its construction was carried out in stages over three centuries and involved many of the greatest artists and architects in Europe. The style is almost entirely Gothic, and shows influences from Germany, France and the Low Countries. First to be built were the nave and cloisters, while the intricate, crocketed spires and the richly decorated side chapels are mostly later work. The architects cleverly adapted the cathedral to its sloping site, incorporating stairways inside and out. . Golden Staircase This elegant Renaissance staircase by Diego de Siloé (1519–22) links the nave with a tall door (kept locked) at street level. KEY Puerta de Santa María 1 Capilla de la Presentación (1519–24) is a funerary chapel with a star-shaped, traceried vault. 2 Capilla de Santa Tecla 3 Tomb of El Cid 4 Capilla de Santa Ana features an altarpiece (1490) by the sculptor Gil de Siloé. The central panel shows St Anne with St Joachim. 5 Lantern 6 Capilla de San Juan Bautista and museum 7 Interpretation Centre 8 Capilla de la Visitación 9 Reception and Information Centre 0 Capilla del Santisímo Cristo For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 377 Retrochoir VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Several of the reliefs around the chancel were carved by Philippe Practical Information de Bigarny. This expressive scene, Plaza de Santa María. Tel 947 20 which was completed in 1499, 47 12. Open 9:30am–7:30pm depicts the road to Calvary. daily (Nov–Mar: 10am–7pm). 5 9am, 10am, 11am, 7:30pm daily; noon, 1pm, 2pm Sun. & ^ 7 ∑ catedraldeburgos.info . Constables’ Chapel The tomb of the High Constable of Castile and his wife lies beneath the openwork vault of this chapel of 1496. Sacristy (1765) The sacristy was rebuilt in Baroque style, with an exuberant plasterwork vault and Rococo altars. Puerta del Sarmental The tympanum of this portal of 1240 shows Christ flanked by the Evangelists. This is the main entrance for tourists. . The Crossing The magnificent star-ribbed central dome, begun in 1539, rises on four huge pillars. It is decorated with effigies of prophets and saints. Beneath it is the tomb of El Cid and his wife.
380 CENTRAL SPAIN l Lerma a chapel in the north gallery. The old pharmacy, just off the Burgos. * 2,900. £ @ n Calle cloister, has a display of jars from Audiencia 6, 947 17 70 02 (closed Talavera de la Reina (see p390). Mon, except Aug). ( Wed. _ Nuestra Señora de la Natividad The Benedictine community (8 Sep). ∑ citlerma.com holds regular services in Greg- orian chant in the Neo-Classical The grandiose appearance of Cloisters of the Monasterio de Santo church by Ventura Rodríguez. this town is largely due to the Domingo de Silos The monastery offers accom- ambition of the notorious first modation for male guests. Duke of Lerma (see p64), Felipe z Monasterio de III’s corrupt favourite and Santo Domingo Environs minister from 1598 to 1618. de Silos To the southwest lies the He misused vast quantities of Garganta de la Yecla (Yecla Spain’s new-found wealth on Santo Domingo de Silos (Burgos). Gorge), where a path leads to new buildings in his home town Tel 947 39 00 49. @ from Burgos. a narrow fissure cut by the river. – all strictly Classical in style, Open 10am–1pm, 4:30–6pm Tue– To the northeast, the peaks in accordance with prevailing Sun. Closed pub hols. & 5 9am, and wildlife reserve of the fashion. At the top of the town, 7pm Mon–Sat, 11am & 7pm Sun. Sierra de la Demanda extend the Palacio Ducal, built in 1605 ∑ abadiadesilos.es over into La Rioja. as his residence, has been transformed into a parador. St Dominic gave his name to The 15th-century castle of Peñaranda the monastery he built in 1041 de Duero There are good views over over the ruins of an abbey the Río Arlanza from the arch- destroyed by the Moors. It is x Peñaranda de ways near to the Convento de a place of spiritual and artistic Duero Santa Clara and also from the pilgrimage – its tranquil setting Colegiata de San Pedro church, has inspired countless poets. Burgos. * 580. @ n Calle which has a bronze statue of Trinquete 7. Tel 947 55 20 63 the Duke’s uncle. Others come to admire the (closed Mon, Sun pm). ( Fri. beautiful Romanesque cloisters, _ Santiago (25 Jul), Santa Ana The narrow, sloping streets of the Old Town whose capitals are sculpted in a (26 Jul), Virgen de los Remedios of Lerma variety of designs, both symbol- (8 Sep). ∑ penarandadeduero.es istic and realistic. The carvings on the corner piers depict various The castle of Peñaranda was scenes from the Bible and the built during the Reconquest (see ceilings are coffered in Moorish pp58–9) by the Castilians, who style. The body of St Dominic had driven the Moors back rests in a silver urn, supported south of the Río Duero. From by three Romanesque lions, in its hilltop site, there are views down to one of the most Gregorian Plainchant Manuscript for an 11th-century charming villages in old Castile, Gregorian chant where pantiled houses cluster At regular intervals throughout the around a huge church. The day, the monks of Santo Domingo main square is lined with porti- de Silos sing services in plainchant, coed, timber-framed buildings an unaccompanied singing of Latin and the superb Renaissance texts in unison. The origins of chant Palacio de Avellaneda. Framing date back to the beginnings of its main doorway are various Christianity, but it was Pope Gregory I (590–604) who codified this manner of worship. It is an ancient and austere form of music which has found a new appeal with modern audiences. In 1994 a recording of the monks became a surprise hit all over the world. Ruins of San Juan de Duero Monastery in Soria
CASTILLA Y LEÓN 381 Across the Duero is the ruined monastery of San Juan de Duero, with a 13th-century cloister of interlacing arches. Curtain walls and drum towers of Berlanga de Duero castle Environs North of Soria are the ruins of heraldic devices, and inside 20 km (12 miles) further south- Numantia, whose inhabitants is a patio with fine decorated east, and at Calatañazor, 25 km endured a year-long Roman ceilings. On Calle de la Botica (16 miles) northeast of El Burgo siege in 133 BC before defiantly is a 17th-century pharmacy. de Osma, near to where the burning the town and them- Moorish leader al Mansur was selves (see p54). To the northwest Environs killed in 1002 (see p57). is the Sierra de Urbión, a range In Aranda de Duero, 18 km of pine-clad hills with a lake, (10 miles) to the west, the Iglesia v Soria the Laguna Negra de Urbión. de Santa María, has an Isabelline façade (see p28). Soria. * 40,150. £ @ n Calle E Museo Numantino Medinaceli 2, 975 21 20 52. Paseo del Espolón 8. Tel 975 22 13 97. P Palacio de Avellaneda ( Thu. _ San Juan (24 Jun). Open Tue–Sun. & (free Sat & Sun). 7 Plaza Condes de Miranda 1. Tel 947 ∑ sorianitelaimaginas.com 55 20 13. Open 10am–2pm, 4–8pm b Medinaceli Tue–Sun. 8 only (every 30 min). Castilla y León’s smallest pro- vincial capital stands on the Soria. * 820. £ @ n Campo San c El Burgo de Osma banks of the Río Duero. Soria’s Nicolás, 975 32 63 47. _ Beato Julián stylish, modern parador is de San Agustín (28 Aug), Cuerpos Soria. * 5,250. @ n Plaza Mayor 9, named after the poet Antonio Santos (13 Nov). ∑ medinaceli.es 975 36 01 16 (closed Wed except in Machado (1875–1939, see p39), high season). ( Sat. _ Virgen del who wrote in praise of the town Only a triumphal arch remains Espino and San Roque (14–19 Aug). and the surrounding plains. of Roman Ocilis, perched on a ∑ burgodeosma.com Many of the older buildings are high ridge over the Río Jalón. gone, but among those remain- Built in the 1st century AD, it is The most interesting sight in ing are the imposing Palacio the only one in Spain with three this attractive village is the de los Condes de Gómara, and arches. It has been adopted as cathedral. Although it is mostly the Concatedral de San Pedro, the symbol for ancient monu- Gothic (dating from 1232), with both built in the 16th century. ments on Spanish road signs. Renaissance additions, the tower is Baroque (1739). Its The Museo Numantino, Environs treasures include a Juan de Juni opposite the municipal gardens, Just to the east are the red cliffs of altarpiece and the tomb of the displays a variety of finds from the Jalón gorges. On the Madrid– founder, San Pedro de Osma. the nearby Roman ruins of Zaragoza road is the 12th- The museum has a valuable Numantia and Tiermes (see p369). century Cistercian monastery collection of illuminated of Santa María de Huerta. It manuscripts and codices. includes a 13th-century Gothic cloister and the superb, crypt- Porticoed buildings line the like Monks’ Refectory. streets and the Plaza Mayor, and storks nest on the Baroque R Monasterio de Santa Hospital de San Agustín. María de Huerta Tel 975 32 70 02. Open daily. Closed 24 Aug. & 7 ∑ monasteriohuerta.org Environs Decorative arches in the cloister of the monastery of San Juan de Duero Overlooking the Río Duero at For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–70 and pp594–5 Gormaz, 12 km (7 miles) south, is a massive castle with 28 towers. There are also medieval fortresses at Berlanga de Duero,
CENTRAL SPAIN 383 CASTILLA-LA MANCHA Guadalajara • Cuenca • Toledo • Albacete • Ciudad Real La Mancha’s empty beauty, its windmills and medieval castles, silhouetted above the sienna plains, was immortalized by Cervantes in Don Quixote’s epic adventures. Its brilliantly sunlit, wide horizons are among the classic images of Spain. This scarcely visited region has great, scenic mountain ranges, dramatic gorges and the two monument-filled cities of Toledo and Cuenca. As the name Castilla suggests you will gorges; on two sides it spills down always find a castle nearby in this region. steep hillsides. Villanueva de los Infantes, Most were built in the 9th–12th centuries, Chinchilla, Alcaraz and Almagro are when the region was a battleground towns of character built between the between Christians and Moors, while 16th and 18th centuries. Ocaña and others mark the 14th- and 15th-century Tembleque each has a splendid frontiers between the kingdoms of Aragón plaza mayor (main square). and Castile. Sigüenza, Belmonte, Alarcón, Molina de Aragón and Calatrava la La Mancha’s plains are brightened by Nueva are among the most impressive. natural features of great beauty in its two national parks – the Tablas de Daimiel, and Toledo, which was the capital of Cabañeros, within the Montes de Toledo. Visigothic Spain, is an outstanding Rimming the plains are beautiful upland museum city. Its rich architectural and areas: the olive groves of the Alcarria; artistic heritage derives from a coa- Cuenca’s limestone mountains; and the lescence of Muslim, Christian and Jewish peaks of the Sierra de Alcaraz. The wine cultures with medieval and Renaissance region of La Mancha is the world’s largest ideas and influences. expanse of vineyards. Around Consuegra and Albacete fields turn mauve in autumn Cuenca is another attractive city. Its as the valuable saffron crocus blooms. Old Town is perched above converging Windmills above Campo de Criptana on the plains of La Mancha Hanging Houses over the Huécar ravine in Cuenca, Castilla-La Mancha
384 CENTRAL SPAIN Exploring Castilla-La Mancha 0 kilometres 50 0 miles 30 Madrid The historic city of Toledo is Castilla-La Mancha’s major tourist destination. Less crowded towns with historical charm include Almagro, Oropesa, Alcaraz and Guadalajara. At Sigüenza, Calatrava, Belmonte and Alarcón there are medieval castles, reminders of the region’s eventful past. Some towns on the plains of La Mancha, such as El Toboso and Campo de Criptana, are associated with the adventures of Don Quixote (see p399). The wooded uplands of the Serranía de Cuenca, the Alcarria and the Sierra de Alcaraz provide picturesque scenic routes, and the wetland nature reserve of the Tablas de Daimiel is a haven for bird lovers. Sights at a Glance Ávila 1 Atienza Madrid 2 Sigüenza 3 Molina de Aragón Tiétar Escalona Maqueda Guadarrama ILLESCAS M 4 La Alcarria Alberche Aranjuez Ta 5 Guadalajara 6 Serranía de Cuenca TALAVERA - 7 Cuenca pp388–9 DE LA REINA 8 Segóbriga Lagartera Bargas Ocaña L 9 Uclés S 0 Illescas Cáceres OROPESA Alcaudete Tajo TOLEDO d q Talavera de la Reina El Puente del de la Jara w Oropesa San Martín de Guadamur VI e Montes de Toledo Arzobispo Montalbán Lillo L r Toledo pp392–7 La Nava de Menasalbas TEMBLEQUE t Tembleque Ricomalillo Orgaz y Consuegra Sevilleja de TOLEDO u Campo de Criptana DE Los Yébenes i El Toboso la Jara M O N T E S o Belmonte p Alarcón Anchuras C A S T I L LGua dPearCqaubeaNñaercoiosdRneealtluBeudPrluetlaaleqBbuuloellaNqCuueOevNo SUPEuGerRtoAUrLdáapice a Alcalá del Júcar s Albacete Puebla dediana A f Alcaraz Don Rodrigo g Lagunas de Ruidera Porzuna TABLAS DE Daimiel h Villanueva de los Infantes Mérida Piedrabuena DAIMIEL j Valdepeñas k Viso del Marqués Agudo Ciudad Real l Calatrava la Nueva z Almagro Manzanares x Tablas de Daimiel c Valle de Alcudia Chillón Abenójar ALMAGRO Moral de Almadén Calatrava Alamillo VALLE DE Puertollano VALDEPEÑAS Plaza del Judío ALCUDIA CALATRAVA Santa Cruz 1106m LA NUEVA de Mudela VISO DEL Las MARQUÉS Virtudes Jaén Tours d Sierra de Alcaraz The tranquil Montes de Toledo
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 385 Campisábalos ATIENZA Zaragoza Sorbe SIGÜENZA Maranchón Embid Cogolludo Alcolea del Pinar Jadraque TajuñCaifuentes MOLINA DE Brihuega ARAGÓN Virgen de la Hoz Parque Natural del Alto Tajo Tajo GUADALAJARA Villanueva de Alcorón Lupiana ABLuCeAndRAíRalcI Aocer Beteta Sacedón Priego SERRANÍA DE CUENCA Cattle grazing on the isolated plains of La Mancha Pastrana L A Tragacete Embalse de Cañaveras Buendía Villalba Tajo Madrid JúcarCiudad GuadazaónEncantada Huete arancón Carrascosa CUENCA Cañete SEGÓBRIGA del Campo Teruel UCLÉS Saelices Moya Key Carboneras Motorway San Lorenzo de Guadazaón de la Parrilla Cardenete Corral de Almaguer Embalse de Mira Major road Villaescusa Alarcón Secondary road de Haro Honrubia EL TOBOSO BELMONTE ALARCÓN Minglanilla Scenic route Valencia Main railway Mota del Cuervo Minor railway Regional border CAMPO DE CRIPTANA San Clemente Iniesta Cabriel Summit Alborea Alcázar de Socuéllamos Júcar San Juan Mahora LA M A N C HA Jorquera ALCALÁ DEL JÚCAR La Roda Tomelloso La Gineta LAGUNAS DE Munera Casas de RUIDERA Juan Núñez La Solana ALBACETE San Carlos Cueva de El Bonillo Valencia Montesinos Bonete Almansa Balazote Chinchilla de Monte Aragón del Valle Viveros Robledo Pozo Cañada Alicante Caudete (Alacant) ILLANUEVA DE Guadalmena ALCARAZ Ontur LOS INFANTES Mundo Ayna Liétor Hellín SIERRA Sierra Murcia Ubeda DE ALCARAZ Elche de la Yeste Férez Arguellite Letur Nerpio Getting Around The village of Alcalá del Júcar For keys to symbols see back flap Castilla-La Mancha is best explored by car as it is well endowed with a network of motorways radiating outwards from Madrid. The region is also served by high-speed AVE trains which run between Madrid, Seville, Toledo and Albacete (via Cuenca). Otherwise, public transport is infrequent and slow.
386 CENTRAL SPAIN 1 Atienza Guadalajara. * 500. n Héctor Vázquez 2, 949 39 92 93 (closed Mon–Fri). ( Fri. _ La Caballada (Pentecost Sun). ∑ turismo castillalamancha.es Rising high above the valley it Semi-recumbent figure of El Doncel on his tomb in Sigüenza Cathedral once protected, Atienza contains vestiges of its medieval past. Doncel, built for Martín Vázquez Environs Crowning the hill is a ruined de Arce, Isabel of Castile’s page West of Molina is the Virgen 12th-century castle. The arcaded (see p60). He was killed in battle de la Hoz chapel, set in a rust- Plaza Mayor and the Plaza del against the Moors in 1486. The red ravine. Further southwest Trigo are joined by an original sacristy has a ceiling carved is a nature reserve, the Parque gateway. The Museo de San with flowers and cherubs. Natural del Alto Tajo. Gil, a religious art museum, is in the church of the same name. 3 Molina de Aragón The Iglesia de Santa María del Rey, at the foot of the hill, Guadalajara. * 4,000 @ displays a Baroque altarpiece. n Calle de las Tiendas 62, 949 83 20 98. ( Thu. _ Día del Carmen Environs (16 Jul), Ferias (30 Aug–5 Sep). Campisábalos, to the west, has ∑ turismomolinaaltotajo.com a 12th-century Romanesque church. The Hayedo de Tejera Molina’s attractive medieval Arab ramparts above Molina de Aragón’s Negra, further west, is a nature quarter is at the foot of a hill next Old Town reserve of beech woods. to the Río Gallo. The town was disputed during the Reconquest 4 La Alcarria E Museo de San Gil and captured from the Moors by Calle San Gil. Tel 949 39 90 41. Open Alfonso I of Aragón in 1129. Many Guadalajara. @ Guadalajara. Sat & Sun; by appt weekdays. & monuments were destroyed n Palacio Ducal, Plaza de la Hora, during the War of Independence Pastrana, 949 37 06 72. ∑ turismo 2 Sigüenza (see p67), but the 11th-century castillalamancha.es hilltop castle preserves seven Guadalajara. * 5,000. £ @ original towers. It is possible to n Calle Serrano Sanz 9, 949 34 70 07. visit the Romanesque-Gothic ( Sat. _ San Vicente (22 Jan), Iglesia de Santa Clara. San Juan (24 Jun), Fiestas Patronales (mid-Aug). ∑ siguenza.es Dominating the hillside town of Sigüenza is its impressive castle-parador. The cathedral is Romanesque, with later additions such as the Gothic- Plateresque cloisters. In one of the chapels is the Tomb of El Olive groves in La Alcarria in the province of Guadalajara This vast stretch of undulating olive groves and fields east of Guadalajara is still evocative of Camilo José Cela’s (see p39) book Journey to the Alcarria. Driving through the rolling hills, it seems that little has changed since this account of Spanish rural life was written in the 1940s. Towards the centre of the Alcarria are three immense, adjoining reservoirs called the Mar de Castilla (Sea of Castile). The first reservoir was built in For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 387 1946, and holiday homes have subsequently sprung up close to the shores and on the outskirts of villages. In the historic ducal town of Pastrana, 45 km (28 miles) south east of Guadalajara, is one of the prettiest towns in the Alcarria. The town developed alongside the Palacio Mendoza, and by the 17th century was larger and more affluent than Guadalajara. The Iglesia Colegiata de la Asunción contains four 15th century Flemish tapestries and paintings from El Greco’s school. Brihuega, 30 km (19 miles) northeast of Guadalajara, has a pleasant old centre. 5 Guadalajara Guadalajara. * 84,800. £ @ n Plaza Aviación Militar Española, 949 88 70 99. ( Tue, Sat. _ Virgen de la Antigua (Sep). ∑ guadalajara.es Guadalajara’s history is largely Sculpted rock figures in Ciudad Encantada beauty spots are the Ciudad lost within the modern city, Encantada (Enchanted City), although traces of its The 15thcentury Iglesia de where the limestone has been Renaissance splendour survive. San Francisco is home to the eroded into spectacular shapes, The Palacio de los Duques del mausoleum of the Mendoza and the mossclad waterfalls Infantado, built between the family; it cannot, however, be and rock pools of the 14th and 17th centuries by the visited. The cathedral is built powerful Mendoza dynasty, is on the site of a mosque. Nacimiento del Río Cuervo an outstanding example of (Source of the River Cuervo). GothicMudéjar architecture (see Environs p28). The main façade and patio At Lupiana, 11 km (7 miles) east The main river flowing are adorned with carving. The of Guadalajara, is the twostorey through the area, the Júcar, restored palace now houses the Monasterio de San Bartolomé, carves a gorge near Villalba de Museo Provincial. Among the founded in the 14th century. la Sierra. The viewpoint of the churches in the town is the Ventano del Diablo gives Iglesia de Santiago, with a P Palacio de los Duques the best view of the gorge. GothicPlateresque chapel del Infantado by Alonso de Covarrubias. Plaza de los Caídos en la Guerra Civil Between Beteta and Priego, to 13. Tel 949 21 33 01. Open daily; the north, is another spectacular Detail of the façade of the Palacio de los museum: Tue–Sun. 7 river canyon, the Hoz de Beteta, Duques del Infantado where the Río Guadiela has cut 6 Serranía de its way through the surrounding Cuenca cliffs. There are good views from the convent of San Miguel de las Cuenca. @ Cuenca. n Calle Victorias. A small road leads to Alfonso VIII 2, Cuenca, 969 24 10 51. the 18thcentury royal spa ∑ serraniaaltadecuenca.es of Solán de Cabras. To the north and east of Cuenca In the emptier eastern and stretches the vast serranía, a southern tracts is Cañete, a mountainous area of forests pretty, fortified old town with a and pastures dissected by deep parish church displaying 16th gorges. Its two most popular century paintings. To the south east of Cañete are the eerie ruins of the abandoned town of Moya.
388 CENTRAL SPAIN The Plaza de la Merced buildings contrast with 7 Street-by-Street: Cuenca the modern Museo de las Cuenca’s picturesque Old Town sits astride a steeply sided Ciencias (Science Museum). spur which, drops precipitously on either side to the deep gorges of the Júcar and Huécar rivers. Around the Moorish Museo de las town’s narrow, winding streets grew the Gothic and Ciencias Renaissance city, its monuments built with with the profits of the wool and textile trade. The main sight is the cathedral, MARÍA one of the most original works of Spanish Gothic, with CALLE DE SANTA Anglo-Norman influences. One of the picturesque Hanging Houses, which jut out over the Huécar ravine, has been converted into the excellent Museum of Abstract Art. CALLE MOSEN DIEGO DE DE CA L VA LERA A LFO L E VIII N S O Torre Mangana This ruined lookout tower at the top of the town is all that remains of an Arab fortress. There are wonderful panoramic views from the top. Ayuntamiento Museo de Cuenca The collection, covering prehistory up to the 17th century, includes an excellent exhibition on Roman Cuenca. Key Suggested route . Museo de Arte Abstracto Spain’s abstract art museum is inside one of the Hanging Houses. It contains works by the movement’s leading artists, including Antoni Tàpies and Eduardo Chillida. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 389 0 metres Plaza Mayor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 0 yards This café-lined, arcaded square Practical Information is in the heart of Cuenca. * 57,000. the Old Town. ∑ cuenca.es The 18th-century n Calle Alfonso VIII 2, 969 24 10 Baroque town hall 51. ( Tue. Museo Diocesano: (ayuntamiento), Open Tue–Sun. & Museo de built with arches, Arte Abstracto: Open Tue–Sun. stands at the & Museo de las Ciencias: south end. Open Tue–Sun. & ^ Museo de Cuenca: Open Tue–Sat, 50 Sun am. & 50 Transport £ Calle Mariano Catalina, The Iglesia de San Miguel, 902 32 03 20. @ Calle Fermín perched over the Júcar gorge, Caballero 20, 969 22 70 87. was built in the Romanic style. SEVERO CATALINA PLAZA CALLE DE SAN PEDRO M AY O R VALERO CALLE DE JULIÁN ROMERO Museo Diocesano The cathedral’s treasures, CALLE DE OBISPO which are housed in the Palacio Episcopal, include paintings by El Greco. To Parador de Cuenca . Cathedral Highlights of the 12th- to . Hanging Houses 18th-century building are the The 14th-century beamed decorated altar, chapterhouse Casas Colgadas were once used as a summer residence and the side chapels. for the royal family. For keys to symbols see back flap
390 CENTRAL SPAIN R Hospital de la Caridad Calle Cardenal Cisneros 2. Tel 925 54 00 35. Open Mon–Sat. & 7 q Talavera de la Reina Toledo. * 89,000. £ @ n Calle Ronda del Cañillo 22, 925 82 63 22. ( Wed & 1st Sat of month. _ Las Mondas (Sat after Easter), Feria de San Isidro (15–18 May), Virgen del Prado (8 Sep), Feria de San Mateo (20–23 Sep). ∑ talavera.org Remains of a Roman building in Segóbriga A ruined 15th-century bridge 8 Segóbriga from 1174, because of its central across the Tagus marks the Saelices, Cuenca, CM-310, km 58. location. The austere building you entrance to the old part of this Tel 629 75 22 57. Open Tue–Sun. Museum: Closed some public hols. see today is mainly Renaissance busy market town. From the & 8 by appt. ∑ segobriga.org but overlaid with Baroque detail. bridge you can walk past the The small ruined Roman city of Segóbriga, near the town It has a magnificent carved surviving part of the Moorish of Saelices, is located in open, unspoiled countryside close to wooden ceiling and staircase. and medieval wall to the 12th- the Madrid–Valencia motorway. The Romans who lived here century collegiate church. It has exploited the surrounding area, growing cereals, felling timber 0 Illescas a small but beautiful Gothic and mining minerals. cloister, and 18th-century belfry. Many parts of the city can be Toledo. * 23,500. £ @ n Plaza Talavera’s ceramic workshops explored. The 1st-century theatre Mercado 14, 925 51 10 51. ( Thu. still produce the blue and yellow – which has a capacity of 2,000 _ Fiesta de Milagro (11 Mar), Virgen azulejos (tiles) which have been a people – is sometimes used for de la Caridad (31 Aug). ∑ illescas.es trademark of the town since the performances today. Segóbriga 16th century; but nowadays also had a necropolis, an amphi- theatre, a temple to Diana and Illescas was the summer they also make domestic and public baths. The quarries which supplied the stone to build the location for Felipe II’s court. decorative objects. city can also be seen. While there is little to see of its A good selection of azulejos Nearby, a small museum has some of the site’s finds, although Old Town, the 16th-century can be seen in the large Ermita the best statues are in Cuenca’s Museo Arqueológico (see p388). Hospital de la Caridad, de la Virgen del Prado by 9 Monasterio de near the Iglesia the river. Many of the Uclés de Santa María interior walls have Uclés, Cuenca. Tel 969 13 50 58. Open 10am–6pm daily (till 8pm Jul (12th–13th century superb 16th- to 20th- & Aug). Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. & ∑ monasterioucles.com and renovated in century tile friezes the 15th), has an of religious scenes. important art collec- Housed in a 17th- tion, including five century convent, the late El Grecos (see Ceramics in Talavera Museo Ruiz de Luna p395). The subjects of workshop houses the private three of these are the Talavera pottery Nativity, the Annunciation and collection and personal works the Coronation of the Virgin. of ceramist Juan Ruiz de Luna. The small village of Uclés, to the Part of a frieze of tiles in Talavera’s Ermita del Virgen del Prado south of the Alcarria, is domi- nated by its impressive castle- monastery, nicknamed“El Escorial de La Mancha” for the similarity of its church’s profile to that of El Escorial (see pp334–5). Originally an impregnable medieval fortress, Uclés became the monastery seat of the Order of Santiago For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 391 e Montes de Toledo Castilla-la Mancha’s Fiestas Toledo. @ Pueblo Nuevo del Bullaque. n Parque Nacional de La Endiablada (2–3 Feb) Cabañeros, 926 78 32 97. 8 Almonacid del Marquesado ∑ turismocabaneros.com (Cuenca). At the start of the two-day-long “Fiesta of the Traditional embroidery work in Lagartera, To the southwest of Toledo Bewitched”, men and boys, near Oropesa a range of low mountains gaudily dressed as “devils”, with sweeps towards Extremadura. cowbells strapped to their w Oropesa In medieval times the Montes backs, gather in the house of de Toledo were owned by their leader, the Diablo Mayor. Toledo. * 2,900. £ n Calle bishops and the kings. They They accompany the images Hospital 10, 925 43 02 01. ( Mon & cover some 1,000 sq km of the Virgen de la Candelaria Thu. _ Virgen de Peñitas (8–10 Sep), (386 sq miles). (Virgin of Candlemas) and Beato Alonso de Orozco (19 Sep). St Blaise in procession. As ∑ oropesadetoledo.org The attractive nature reserve the devils dance alongside of the Parque Nacional de the floats bearing the saints’ Oropesa’s medieval and Cabañeros (see pp34–5) encloses images, they ring their bells Renaissance splendour as one a sizable area of woodland and loudly and incessantly. of Toledo’s satellite communities pastures used for grazing sheep. has left a charming old quarter The easiest access to the park is One of the so-called“devils”in at the centre of today’s small from Pueblo Nuevo del Bullaque. La Endiablada fiesta farming town. A circular Ruta From here it is possible to Monumental starts from the make four-hour guided trips in Romería del Cristo del massive, mainly 15th-century Land Rovers, during which you Sahúco (Whit Monday, May/ castle on the top of the hill. A may spot wild boar, deer and Jun), Peñas de San Pedro Renaissance extension – thought imperial eagles. In the pasture- (Albacete). A cross-shaped to be the work of Juan de Herrera, lands stand chozos, conical coffin bearing a figure of co-architect of El Escorial (see refuges for shepherds. Christ is carried 15 km (9 miles) pp334–5) – was added to the here from its shrine by men castle in the 16th century by the In the eastern foothills of the dressed in white. wealthy and influential Álvarez Montes de Toledo is Orgaz, La Caballada (Whit Sunday, family. Part of the castle has with a parish church which early Jun), Atienza (Guadalajara). been converted into a parador. contains works by El Greco. Horsemen follow the route Nearby villages, such as Los across country taken by The Ruta Monumental con- Yébenes and Ventas con Peña the 12th-century muleteers tinues around the town, taking Aguilera, are known for their of Atienza, who are said to in a number of churches, con- leather goods and restaurants have saved the boy King vents, a small ceramics museum serving game. Alfonso VIII of Castile from and the town hall which presides his uncle, Fernando II. over the main square. On the plains stands the small Corpus Christi (May/Jun), church of Santa María de Melque, Toledo. One of Spain’s most believed to date back to the dramatic Corpus Christi (see 8th century. Close by is the p42) processions. The cathe- Templar castle of Montalbán, a dral monstrance (see p396) vast but ruined 12th-century is paraded in the streets, fortress. Nearer to Toledo, at whose walls are adorned Guadamur, there is another with 48 17th-century handsome castle. Flemish tapestries. Environs A chozo (shepherd’s cabin) in the Parque The area around Oropesa is Nacional de Cabañeros excellent for buying handicrafts. Lagartera, just to the west of the town, is famous for the embroidery and lacework by the women in the village, and El Puente del Arzobispo, 12 km (7 miles) south of Oropesa, is a good source of painted ceramics and esparto (grass-weaving) work. Ciudad de Vascos, further southeast, is a ruined 10th- century Arab city in splendid countryside around Azután.
392 CENTRAL SPAIN r Street-by-Street: Toledo Picturesquely sited on a hill above the River The Iglesia de San Puerta Cristo Tagus is the historic centre of Toledo. Behind Román, of Visigothic de la Luz the old walls lies much evidence of the city’s origin, now contains rich history. The Romans built a fortress on the a museum relating the CALLE DE site of the present-day Alcázar. The Visigoths city’s past under made Toledo their capital in the 6th century AD, the Visigoths. and left behind several churches. In the Middle Ages, Toledo was a melting pot of Christian, Muslim and Jewish cultures, and it was during this period that the city’s most outstanding monument – its cathedral – was built. In the 16th century the painter El Greco came to live in Toledo, and today the city is home to many of his works. CARDENAL LORENZANA CALLE DE SAN CALLE DE ALFONSO X ROMÁN . Iglesia de Santo Tomé CALLE DE ALFONSO XII LA TRINIDAD This church, with a beautiful LLE DE Mudéjar tower, houses El Greco’s masterpiece, The Burial of the CA LE DEL Count of Orgaz (see p36). CAL To Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca and Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes To Sinagoga del Tránsito and Casa-Museo de El Greco Archbishop’s Palace 0 metres 100 Spread over a large block, with 0 yards 100 façades on three streets, this 16th-century palace features an austere Renaissance design. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
TOLEDO 393 The Puerta Mezquita del Cristo VISITORS’ CHECKLIST de Sol has a de la Luz double Moorish This mosque, one of the Practical Information arch and city’s two remaining Toledo. * 84,000. two towers. Muslim buildings, dates ∑ toledo-turismo.com from around AD 1000. n Plaza del Consistorio 1, 925 25 40 30. ( Tue. _ Easter, Corpus To Estación de Autobuses and Christi (May/Jun), Virgen del Estación de RENFE Sagrario (15 Aug). Iglesia de San Román: Open Tue–Sun am. & Transport £ Paseo de la Rosa, 902 32 03 20. @ Avenida de Castilla-La Mancha, 925 21 58 50. LOS ALFILERITOS PLAZA CALLE DEL CO DE ZOCODOVER MERCIO L HOMBRE DE PALO CUESTA DE . Museo de Santa Cruz CARLOS V The museum’s fine arts collection includes CALLE DE SIXTO RAMÓN PARRO among its exhibits this 15th-century zodiac tapestry from Flanders. The Plaza de Zocodover is named after the market which was held here in Moorish times. It is still the city’s main square, with many cafés and shops. CARDENAL C I S N E R O S Alcázar The National Army Museum is Key housed here. In the central Suggested route patio is a replica of the statue Carlos V y el Furor. . Cathedral Built on the site of a Visigothic For keys to symbols see back flap cathedral and a mosque, this impressive structure is one of the largest cathedrals in Christendom (see pp396–7). The Flamboyant Gothic high-altar reredos (1504) is the work of several artists.
Alcázar cross, are dedicated to the fine Open daily. & ∑ santotome.org Calle Unión s/n. Tel 925 23 88 00. arts. The collection is especially Open Thu–Tue. & (free Sun). 8 strong in medieval and Renais- Visitors come here mainly for El sance tapestries, paintings and Greco’s masterpiece, The Burial of Charles V’s fortified palace sculptures. There are also works the Count of Orgaz (see p36). The stands on the site of former by El Greco, including one of his Count paid for much of the 14th- Roman, Visigothic and Muslim last paintings, The Virgin of the century building that stands fortresses. Its severe square today. The painting, commis- profile suffered damage by The Virgin of the Immaculate Conception by sioned in his memory by a parish fire three times before being El Greco (1613) in the Museo de Santa Cruz priest, depicts the miraculous almost completely destroyed appearance of St Augustine and in 1936, when the Nationalists St Stephen at his burial, to raise survived a 70-day siege by the his body to heaven. It has never Republicans. Restoration fol- been moved from the setting lowed the original plans and for which it was painted, nor the siege headquarters have restored. Nevertheless, it is been preserved as a monu- remarkable for its contrast of ment to Nationalist heroism. glowing and sombre colours. The former National Museo In the foreground, allegedly, are del Ejército was transferred the artist and his son (both look- from Madrid to this building, ing out), as well as Cervantes. making the Alcázar the main The church is thought to date army museum in Spain. back to the 11th century, and its tower is a fine example of The Borbón-Lorenzana Mudéjar architecture. Library (open to the public) contains 100,000 books and Nearby is the Pastelería manuscripts from the 16th Santo Tomé, a good place to to 19th centuries. buy locally made marzipan. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
TOLEDO 395 P Sinagoga de Santa María Ornate ceiling in the Monasterio de San E Museo del Greco la Blanca Juan de los Reyes Paseo del Tránsito. Tel 925 22 36 65. Calle de los Reyes Católicos 4. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Mon, Sun pm. Tel 925 22 72 57. Open daily. R Monasterio de San Juan & (free Sat pm, Sun). 7 Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 de los Reyes ∑ museodelgreco.mcu.es The oldest and largest of the Calle de los Reyes Católicos 17. Tel 925 city’s original synagogues, this 22 38 02. Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, This museum is located in the monument dates back to the 25 Dec. & 7 (ground floor only). heart of the Jewish quarter, in a 12th–13th century. In 1405 it ∑ sanjuandelosreyes.org house near to the one in which was taken over as a church by El Greco lived. It has a wide San Vincente Ferrer after the A wonderful mixture of archi- collection of his works. Canvases expulsion of the Jews. Resto- tectural styles, this monastery on display include View of Toledo, ration has returned it to its was commissioned by the a detailed depiction of the city original beauty – carved stone Catholic Monarchs in honour of at the time, and the superb capitals and wall panels stand their victory at the battle of Toro series Christ and the Apostles. out against white horseshoe in 1476 (see p361). It was originally Underneath the museum, on arches and plasterwork. In the intended to be their burial place, the ground floor, is a domestic main chapel is a Plateresque but they were actually laid to rest chapel with a fine Mudéjar altarpiece. In 1391 a massacre in Granada (see p492). Largely the ceiling and a collection of art by of Jews took place on this site, work of Juan Guas, the church’s painters of the Toledan School. a turning point after years of main Isabelline structure was religious tolerance in the city. completed in 1496. Although R Iglesia de Santiago it was badly damaged by del Arrabal Mudéjar arches in the Sinagoga de Santa Napoleon’s troops in 1808 (see Calle Real del Arrabal. Tel 925 22 06 María la Blanca p67), it has been restored to its 36. Open for mass. original splendour with features P Sinagoga del Tránsito, such as a Gothic cloister (1510), Close to the Puerta Antigua Museo Sefardí which has a multicoloured de Bisagra, this is one of Calle Samuel Leví. Tel 925 22 36 65. Mudéjar ceiling. Near to the Toledo’s most beautiful Mudéjar Open Tue–Sun (Sun am only). church is a stretch of the Jewish monuments. It can be easily Closed public hols. & (free Sat pm quarter’s original wall. identified by its tower, which & Sun). ∑ museosefardi.mcu.es dates from the 12th-century The most elaborate Mudéjar Reconquest (see pp58–9). The interior in the city is hidden church, which was built slightly behind the humble façade of later, has a beautiful woodwork this former synagogue, built in ceiling and an ornate Mudéjar the 14th century by Samuel Ha- pulpit, but only the exterior of Leví, the Jewish treasurer to Pedro the building can be visited. the Cruel. The interlaced frieze of the lofty prayer hall fuses P Puerta Antigua de Bisagra Islamic, Gothic and Hebrew When Alfonso VI conquered geometric motifs below a Toledo in 1085, he entered it wonderful coffered ceiling. through this gateway, alongside El Cid. It is the only gateway in The synagogue houses a the city to have kept its original museum of Sephardi (Spanish 10th-century military architecture. Jewish) culture. The items on The huge towers are topped by display date from both before a 12th-century Arab gatehouse. and after the Jews’ expulsion from Spain in the late 15th El Greco Domenikos Theotocopoulos, better known century (see p61). as El Greco Born in Crete in 1541, El Greco (“the Greek”) came to Toledo in 1577 to paint the altarpiece in the convent of Santo Domingo el Antiguo. Enchanted by the city, he stayed here, painting religious portraits and altarpieces for other churches. Although El Greco was trained in Italy and influenced by masters such as Tintoretto, his works are closely identified with the city where he settled. He died in Toledo in 1614.
396 CENTRAL SPAIN . Sacristy El Greco’s The Toledo Cathedral Denuding of Christ, above the marble The splendour of Toledo’s massive cathedral altar, was painted reflects its history as the spiritual heart of the especially for the Church in Spain and the seat of the Primate of all cathedral. Also Spain. The Mozarabic Mass, which dates back to here are works by Visigothic times, is still said here today. The present Titian, Van Dyck cathedral was built on the site of a 7th-century and Goya. church. Work began in 1226 and spanned three centuries, until the completion of the last vaults in 1493. This long period of construction explains the cathedral’s mixture of styles: pure French Gothic – complete with flying buttresses – on the exterior; with Spanish decorative styles, such as Mudéjar and Plateresque work, used in the interior. View of Toledo Cathedral Monstrance Dominating the city sky- In the Treasury is the line is the Gothic tower 16th-century Gothic at the west end of the nave. silver and gold mon- The best view of the cathe- strance. It is carried dral, and the city, is from through the streets of the parador (see p571). Toledo during the Corpus Christi cele- KEY brations (see p391). 1 The Puerta del Mollete, on the west façade, is the main entrance to the cathedral. From this door, mollete, or soft bread, was distributed to the poor. 2 The belfry in the tower contains a heavy bell known as La Gorda (“the Fat One”). 3 The Cloister, on two floors, was built in the 14th century on the site of the old Jewish market. 4 Capilla de Santiago 5 The Capilla de San Ildefonso contains the superb Plateresque tomb of Cardinal Alonso Carrillo de Albornoz. 6 Puerta de los Leones 7 The Puerta del Perdón, or Door of Mercy, has a tympanum decorated with religious characters. 8 The Capilla Mozárabe has a beautiful Renaissance ironwork grille, carved by Juan Francés in 1524. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7
TOLEDO 397 . Transparente VISITORS’ CHECKLIST This Baroque altarpiece of marble, Practical Information jasper and bronze, Calle Cardenal Cisneros 1. by Narciso Tomé, Tel 925 22 22 41. is illuminated by ∑ catedralprimada.es an ornate skylight. Open 10am–6:30pm daily It stands out (from 2pm Sun), last entry 1 hr from the mainly before closing. Gothic interior. 5 8am, 10am, 10:30am, 5:30pm, 6:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am, 9am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 5:30pm, 6:30pm Sun (Catholic); 9am Mon– Sat, 9:45am Sun (Mozarabic). Choir, Treasury, Sacristy and Chapterhouse: Open as above. & ^ 7 9. Chapterhouse Above 16th-century frescoes by Juan de Borgoña is this multicoloured Mudéjar ceiling, unique in the city. Entrance via Puerta Llana . High Altar Reredos The polychrome reredos, one of the most beautiful in Spain, depicts scenes from Christ’s life. . Choir The carvings on the wooden lower stalls depict scenes of the fall of Granada. The alabaster upper ones show figures from the Old Testament.
398 CENTRAL SPAIN Windmills on the ridge above Consuegra, overlooking the plains of La Mancha t Tembleque u Campo de the birthplace of Dulcinea, Don Criptana Quixote’s sweetheart. The Casa Toledo. * 2,300. n Plaza Mayor 1, de Dulcinea, the home of Doña 925 14 55 53. ( Wed. _ Jesús de Ciudad Real. * 14,800. £ n Calle Ana Martínez Zarco, on whom Nazareno (23–27 Aug). Rocinante 39, 926 56 22 31 (closed Dulcinea was allegedly based, ∑ turismocastillalamancha.es Mon & Sun pm). ( Tue. _ Virgen has been refurbished in its de Criptana (Easter Mon), Cristos de original 16th-century style. The stone Plaza Mayor (see p31) Villejos (first Thu in Aug), Ferias (23–28 at Tembleque dates from the Aug). ∑ campodecriptana.es The French army allegedly 17th century. It is decorated refused to attack the with the red cross of the Knights Ten windmills stand on a village during the War of Hospitallers, the military order hillcrest in the town. Three are Independence (see pp66–7). which once ruled the town. 16th-century and have their original machinery intact. One P Casa de Dulcinea Environs is the tourist information office, Tel 925 19 72 88. Open Tue–Sun. Ocaña, 30 km (20 miles) north and three others are museums. & (free Sat & Sun). 7 of Tembleque, centres on the huge yet elegant, late 18th- Environs o Belmonte century plaza mayor, one of the More windmills stand above largest town squares in Spain, Alcázar de San Juan and Mota Cuenca. * 2,200. @ n Avenida after Madrid and Salamanca. del Cuervo, a good place to buy Luis Pinedo, 627 406 680. ( Mon. queso manchego, local sheep’s _ San Bartolomé (24 Aug), Virgen y Consuegra cheese (see p343). de Gracia (Sep). ∑ turismocastilla lamancha.es Toledo. * 11,000. @ n Avenida i El Toboso Castilla-La Mancha, 925 59 31 18. Belmonte’s magnificent ( Sat. _ Consuegra Medieval Toledo. * 2,200. n Calle Daoíz y 15th-century castle (see p348) (mid-Aug), La Rosa de Azafrán (last Velarde s/n, 925 56 82 26 (closed is one of the best preserved in weekend Oct). Mon). ( Wed. _ Carnival (17–20 the region. It was built by Juan Jan), Cervantes Day (23 Apr), San Pacheco, Marquis of Villena, Consuegra’s 11 windmills (see Agustín (27–30 Aug). ∑ eltoboso.es after Enrique IV gave him the p31) and restored castle stand town in 1456. Inside it has dec- on a ridge, overlooking the Of all the villages of La Mancha orative carved coffered ceilings, plains of La Mancha. One wind- claiming links to Don Quixote, and Mudéjar plasterwork. The mill is set in motion every year El Toboso has the clearest ties. collegiate church is especially during the town’s festival to It was chosen by Cervantes as remarkable for its richly celebrate the autumn harvest of saffron (see p342). During the fiesta, pickers compete to see who can strip petals from the saffron crocus the fastest. Environs Belmonte’s splendid 15th-century castle About 4 km (2 miles) from Consuegra, on the road to Urda, is a Roman dam. An old restaurant at Puerto Lápice, off the A4 20 km (13 miles) south of Consuegra, claims to be the inn in which Don Quixote was “knighted” by the landlord. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp570–71 and pp595–7